Little Vermillion Crossing on the Oregon Trail

It's known as "Flyover Country," a vast place in the middle of the country that contemporary travelers fly over or speed past on the four-lane super highway to someplace else. That is not just a recent development.  A case could be made that Kansas and its neighbors have been pathways, rarely destinations, for better than 200 years, since the earliest European trappers and fur-traders found their way to the Rocky Mountains.

Kansas is dotted with historic sites associated with those pathways - the Santa Fe, Oregon, California, Chisholm, and Butterfield Trails, the Pony Express, etc. 19 different trails passed through Marshall County alone. Just a few blocks from my Overland Park home are markers for several trails and a Santa Fe Trail campground. (If all the numerous trail crossing signs in Johnson County are accurate, there must have been junctions and intersections galore, necessitating traffic constables to prevent collisions or disputes over the right of way.)

This posting is about my short visit to the Little Vermillion (or Red Vermillion) Crossing on the Oregon Trail, located in Pottawatomie County. A visit to the trail sites associated with the crossing over the Vermillion river stirs visions of the countless human dramas represented as hopeful migrants endured the hardships of the epic march westward. It is estimated that 300 thousand passed over the Oregon Trail during a span of twenty years. Travel over the trail continued during the Civil War, but quickly declined as sections of the Union Pacific Railroad were finished.

In my previous Kansas Journeys post, I recounted my visit to the Tulip Festival at Wamego. Departing the festival in mid-afternoon, I decided to take a slightly longer route home via US-24, avoiding the interstate. East of Wamego, I noticed a sign pointing to an Oregon Trail crossing. Fortunately I was driving slowly enough (locals in a hurry must hate me) to make the turn onto Onaga Road which led to Oregon Trail Road. Before reaching anything resembling a trail crossing, a cemetery caught my eye. More specifically, an unusual iron entry way drew my attention, framing the view of a distant hilltop cemetery, the resting place of Louis Vieux and his immediate family.

An interpretive sign placed by the Pottawatomie County Historical Society tells the story of Louis Vieux, a Frenchman who married into the Pottawatomie tribe prior to their forced move to Kansas Territory. Vieux owned this land on the Little Vermillion, built a toll bridge over the river, and charged $1 per wagon to cross it, earning up to $300 in a single day. Vieux became an important member of the tribe, made several trips to Washington DC representing his people, and became a chief.    

Vieux Family Cemetery

Grave Marker, Mary Vieux - first wife of Louis

Known but to God

A short distance to the west on Oregon Trail Road, I crossed the modern crossing over the Red (Little) Vermillion River and pulled into a small parking lot for the Louis Vieux Elm.

In 1979, the Louis Vieux Elm tree, an important landmark on the Oregon Trail, was judged to be the largest in the USA. A few years later, the giant tree was struck by lightning. A senseless act of vandalism caused further damage. Members of the Pottawatomie County Historical Society then took steps to preserve remnants of this ancient tree and erected the protective cover seen in this photo. The stark memorials in the foreground serve as memorials to the unknown soldiers killed by an outbreak of cholera. (Even after its demise as a settlers' trail to the west, the route of the Oregon Trail was an important military trail, and this site served as an oft-used campground throughout all those years.)

While visiting this site, I met and fell into a lengthy conversation with an older gentleman who had been here on several occasions. He volunteered to show me the path to the nearby "cholera cemetery." He led me back across the Red Vermillion bridge, and followed a path through the woods and along the waterway to a small cemetery enclosed by chain link fence. Within were two natural stone markers with roughly and hurriedly chiseled names. It is believed that 45 to 50 people were buried in the immediate vicinity, but only three markers have survived. The chain link fence exists to protect the remaining stones from vandalism. 

The deaths occurred in the spring of 1849 when a large wagon train camped on the east side of the creek was struck by cholera. Believed to be the cause of cholera outbreak: warming, but not boiling, the river water used for coffee. 

T.S. Prather, May 27, 1849

The Rest of the Story:

When my elderly new acquaintance had arrived at the Vieux tree site, he had left his car doors open and the radio on so he could continue to hear "Live from the Metropolitan Opera." As we began walking toward the cholera cemetery I inquired if he shouldn't turn off the radio, but he insisted that was no problem. You're way ahead of me, aren't you, dear reader? When we returned, his car would not start and we had no luck jump-starting it. I had my cell phone, but was out of range. We waited for 15 to 20 minutes for a non-existent passing motorist. He suggested we drive around in my car to see if we could find an area farmer (several of whom he had met before) who would certainly know more about cars than either of us. At about the fourth farm house we tried, a crusty and reluctant soul was found who somewhat grudgingly agreed to help him out. He waved me on my way home.

The next afternoon I did hear from this gentleman that the fellow had turned out to be a kind sort of guy after all, and had got him back on the road.  

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LINKS OF INTEREST

More about Louis Vieux (including portrait): www.kancoll.org/articles/otrail/ortrail5
Timeline - History Oregon Trail in Kansas: www.vlib.us/old_west/trails/othist

A Tour to Marysville and Blue Rapids

There's been a theme to my two most recent road trips - namely rain and the effects of rain on travel plans. My Saturday-Sunday trip to Council Grove and Eureka was cut to half a day because of heavy rains. On Monday I headed toward Riley County with a goal of getting some late afternoon photos including sunset in the Konza Prairie Preserve. The preserve trails were closed, however, due to wet conditions. I redirected my itinerary, which turned out well, spending more time than expected in Marysville and Blue Rapids, both north of Manhattan in Marshall County.

Marysville, Kansas - Pony Express City

Pony Express Monument ~ One of the more romanticized episodes of the settling of the American West was the story of the Pony Express, immortalized in verse, art, song, and film. The image we have of those brave young fellows galloping across the prairie is stirring stuff, and pretty much right on. It was demanding and often dangerous work. We sometimes fail to realize the business side of the venture was not entirely successful, failing to land the hoped-for government subsidy (yes, even in 1859) until it was too late. By then the transcontinental telegraph line had been completed.


Pony Express Station ~ The 1859 native-stone stable shown above is the only original Pony Express home station standing on its original site. These home stations were located at 40 to 50 mile intervals along the Missouri-California route. At this Marysville station, the young riders relayed pouches of valuable mail to the next section rider, then rested while awaiting the next delivery in the opposite direction. In addition to the stable and blacksmith shop, the building houses a museum of Pony Express and Marshall County memorabilia.


Black Squirrels ~ Black squirrels are very important to the citizens of Marysville, sort of an unofficial mascot, and are given the right of way all over town. Why? These rare black rodents, cute but nonetheless rodents, are not native to the plains states. The story goes that in 1912, a young prankster "liberated" a pair from the display cage of a visiting carnival, and the squirrels were never recaptured. The descendants can be seen today, especially in the city park, but I saw several others in older parts of town with big trees.


Dual Main Streets ~ Like most towns in the midwest, Marysville has a mix of beautifully restored or maintained Victorian business buildings and those which were re-fronted in the 1950s and 60s with tasteless faux-modern facades. What Marysville has that has far more unusual is parallel Main Streets. The block between the two is only as deep as one building. This oddity dates to the pre-Civil War days of Bleeding Kansas, when pro-slavery and abolitionist forces struggled to dominate the state. Businesses found it smarter and safer to establish separate entrances for Southern sympathizers and free-staters.


Historic Courthouse Museum ~ My first view of this stately courthouse was in the warm light of late afternoon sun which made the view of this red-bricked building even more striking. I got off a couple of shots, but unfortunately did not get back to visit the museum and historic courtroom. According to my copy of "Kansas Guidebook for Explorers," I missed some interesting sights and exhibits dedicated to Marshall County towns (including the ghost towns), local military heroes, and Native Americans.


Koester House Museum ~ Built in 1876 by one of Marysville's first bankers, this showplace home is now a museum offering guided tours. The Koester House is but one of several magnificent homes in the area placed on the National Register of Historic Places.


Historic Trails Park ~ Eight important and historic trails passed through this vicinity:

• Oregon Trail,
  
• Pony Express,
  
• Mormon Trail,
  
• Overland Trail,
  
• Military Trail,
  
• Otoe-Missouria Trail,
  
• St. Joseph-California Trail, and
  
• Pike's Peak-California Trail.
  

These trails are commemorated in a series of informative plaques and monuments, placed in a small wooded park near the location of Franklin (or Francis?) Marshall's rope ferry on the Big Blue River. A replica of the ferry is also at the site.


1914 Round Barn ~ In 1914 the owners of this farm southwest of Marysville ordered a barn, by mail order one assumes. Many say the barn was from Sears and Roebuck, although there is nothing in the barn today to prove (or disprove) that. It was shipped as a kit by rail to the Marysville area, then assembled on this spot. The current owners of this farm (whose name escapes me) have faithfully maintained this barn and updated the classic prairie farmhouse on the property as well. The barn is known as the Lewis Rowe barn, probably a reference to the original owners.


Arched Stone Bridge ~ West River Road Drive (the one that goes to the round barn), is a gravel road through hilly, wooded landscape. Few drivers happen to notice several very old stone, arched bridges along the way. I had read of these bridges beforehand in a guidebook and was watching for them, but still only spied this one - and I almost missed it! Looking at this photo you can see why.

Blue Rapids - Where the Town Square Is Round

No, there are no Blue Rapids here. I was told there used to be rapids on the Blue River but they were the result of a dam which no longer exists. And yes, as you can see by looking at the photo above, the town square is round. Kind of like a huge traffic round-about, except this one has businesses and parking around it. And a police station in the middle. Nancy and I have a fond memory of Blue Rapids; it was at a farm/rescue shelter near here that we adopted Melody, our loving Shetland Sheepdog. On this trip I was to visit sites of historic interest, however. Blue Rapids, a town of about 1300 residents, sits near the Big Blue River and has several significant sites.

Alcove Spring is certainly the most notable of the local sites on the route of the Oregon Trail. Located near the Independence Crossing, where travelers crossed the Big Blue, this spring with adjacent woodlands and meadows, provided a key campground before attempting the crossing.

Emigrants on the trail destined for Oregon wrote of this spot's beauty and serenity. A few contemplated ending their journey here, only six days after crossing into Kansas Territory. Some groups, including the ill-fated and infamous Donner-Reed Party, camped here for several days after rains swelled the nearby Big Blue River beyond its banks making it impassable. But eventually they moved on. Settlement would not come to the region for several more years.

Little is left from those visitors. A few travelers carved names and dates into rocks and trees. One 70 year woman in the Donner party, Sarah Keys, died of illness while camped here and was buried. Her actual burial site is not known, but a Daughters of the American Revolution monument honors her memory. There is little to see here in the way of relics or artifacts - other than wagon ruts (known as swales) still visible in some spots. But it is interesting and worthwhile to view the location, and to better understand the rigors of the westward march. It is also a beautiful area - especially in springtime when the wildflowers are in bloom and spring water is flowing over the ledge.


Holm Cabin ~ Back in town, there is more of interest on the round square, beginning with the Holm Cabin, built in 1876 by Swedish immigrants and moved to this location in 1996.


Oldest Library ~ Also on the town square is the public library, built in 1876 of native limestone. It is the oldest library building west of the Mississippi River in continuous use, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.


Old Bank ~ Kudos to the State Bank of Blue Rapids. This family-owned bank has occupied this native limestone building since 1870, and has maintained the architectural and aesthetic integrity of this stately structure.


Round Barn ~ Here's another interesting old, round barn, located east of Blue Rapids on K-9 Highway. This one was built in 1913, and as can be seen here, is quite sizable.



I stumbled into this little hometown cafe, quite literally, causing locals to smile at the clumsy out-of-towner with the fancy camera. No problem, I was laughing at myself. While listening to other customers discuss the situation of wet fields delaying the wheat harvest, but allowing the corn to grow like crazy, I scarfed down a hearty hot roast beef sandwich, made from real pot roast and real (not instant) mashed potatoes. Then I looked at the chalkboard menu again and saw sour cream raisin pie listed, and learned that it was made at home by my waitress' mom. Diet or not, I was defenseless from this temptation. Rich, creamy, heavenly!!!


Bonus Coverage - Westmoreland, Kansas
I stopped in Westmoreland briefly en route to the I-70 interchange and the drive home. Here are a few photos and key tidbits:


Scott Springs Oregon Trail Park ~ Hundreds of thousands of westward bound pioneers camped here by the springs. This sculpture commemorates the site. Located half mile south of town on K-99 Highway.







Pottawatomie County Courthouse ~ Erected in 1884 of native limestone.





Old Stone Church ~ Built by German Evangelical Association in 1888 of native stone; now part of Westmoreland's Rock Creek Historical Society Museum complex.





Classic Church Building ~ White clapboard church building, looks like it belongs in a Norman Rockwell illustration.








Main Street Mercantile ~ quaint old business building, one of a couple of antique or gift shops in Westmoreland.

... and that's the way it was. hope you
enjoyed traveling along, and come back
for the next road trip with me. Bye!!