Nothing Flat About the Arikaree Breaks

I'm pleased to report that I was recently honored by a request from Kansas Travel and Tourism to share my recollections of a visit to Cheyenne County's Arikaree Breaks on the state's travel blog. I encourage you to check that piece out at:

http://blog.travelks.com/arikaree-breaks-nothing-flat-about-that/

Halfway to Santa Fe ~ Pawnee Rock

While doing some organizational work on my photo archives, I discovered a few photos that I had intended to post last spring. En route home from a photo "safari" to the Red Hills, we (Melody dog and I) had stopped briefly at Pawnee Rock, a little-known, but historically significant, landmark on the plains.In spite of its significance, I never got around to posting my photos.

Although Pawnee Rock State Historic Site is not exactly what you might call a "Wow!" place visually, it is a place of importance to those interested in the Santa Fe Trail in particular, or Plains Indians and Kansas history in general. Driving US 56 between Great Bend and Larned can see the mound from the highway, and it doesn't take a lengthy detour to drive over and check it out.

Prior to the arrival of European explorers and settlers, plains Indians used the mound, then about 150 feet taller than the surrounding flat-lands*, as an observation point from which to spot the vast herds of American bison which roamed the area, as well as warring rival tribes. Later on, it was also used to spy the wagon trains on the Santa Fe Trail which were crossing their hunting grounds.  Trail [travelers] were undoubtedly glad to reach Pawnee Rock as it meant they were half-way to Santa Fe, but they also knew that Indians could pose a danger at this point. In 1859, nearby Fort Larned (originally known as the "Camp on Pawnee Fork") was established making this stretch of the roadway a little more secure for travelers.

How did Pawnee Rock get its name? It depends upon whom you ask. Kansaspedia, a website of the Kansas Historical Society, outlines three versions of the story:

"Many stories have been told to explain how Pawnee Rock got its name. One tale relates that it was sacred ground for the Pawnee Indians who held tribal councils on its flat top. Another describes a great battle in which a small band of Pawnees was destroyed by a force of Kiowas, Cheyennes, and Arapahos. Both of these attribute the name to events in Pawnee lore that occurred near the Rock. A tradition among white plainsmen was that the Rock received its name in 1826 from an embarrassing mistake by Kit Carson. A raw youth of seventeen, Carson was on his first trip into the West. The wagon train with which he was working camped for the night near the Rock. He was given guard duty. In the dark, he shot his own mule, thinking it was an attacking Pawnee. His unkind associates commemorated his unfortunate experience with the name, Pawnee Rock."

www.kshs.org/kansapedia/pawnee-rock/11905 

Pawnee Rock State Historical Site is now administered by the Kansas Historical Society. The stone monument was dedicated in 1912. Pawnee Rock was added to the National Register of Historic Places around 1970.

* Modern visitors can easily observe that the "summit" of Pawnee Rock is somewhat lower than 150 feet. During the 1870s, the engineers building the nearby railway running parallel to the old Santa Fe Trail removed much of the rock for the purpose of fortifying the road bed. Some early settlers also made use of the stone as building material, and as a result, Pawnee Rock is now about half its original height.

Looking out from the monument across the croplands, use your imagination. Visualize a vast ocean of grass, enormous herds of American bison, or a line of oxen carts slogging along the Santa Fe Trail. That was the scene here - not that many generations ago.

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Learn more about Pawnee Rock at these sites:

I especially recommend this page at Legends of Kansas for its detailed history of the region and the town of Pawnee Rock: http://www.legendsofkansas.com/pawneerock.htmli 

This web page has a number of additional photos of Pawnee Rock, as well as interesting reading about the Smoky Hill and Santa Fe Trails. Scroll down to see Pawnee Rock photos:

http://www.historum.com/american-history/19145-howard-raynesford-smoky-hill-trail-2.html
 

Kansas State Historical Society: 

http://www.kshs.org/

Photos and text (except for that attributed to Kansas Historical Society)

copyright Frank Thompson

Visiting Abilene's Historic Seelye Mansion with Lisa Waterman Gray

It was an accidental meeting. While nursing my daily café latté at

 Lenexa's finest coffee house, I heard bits of pieces of a nearby conversation and surmised they were discussing Kansas and photography. Upon introducing myself, I learned that one of the folks was Lisa Waterman Gray, a name which I recognized, but could not remember why.  I later learned that Lisa is a much-published free lance writer whose credits include articles for Midwest Living; AAA's Midwest, Southern, and New Mexico Travel magazines; Kansas City Star; Christian Science Monitor; Delta Sky; KANSAS! Magazine, and numerous other magazines and journals. 

Lisa has recently published a guidebook for travelers, Explorer's Guide Kansas, as well as authoring a blog: Crossing Kansas.

I was recently honored by a request to do a "guest spot" on Crossing Kansas, and now have the privilege of returning that favor to Ms. Waterman Gray. I am pleased that she chose to share her views and photos of the historic Seelye Mansion in Abilene. I have driven by on several occasions, but never toured this majestic old home, one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Architecture.

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I pulled into the driveway of the graceful Historic Seelye Mansion, in Abilene, on a cool fall morning. Set against a cobalt sky and a wide expanse of emerald lawn and manicured gardens, the 1905 Georgian-style mansion combined a natural stone foundation with massive columns and expansive porches.

Tiffany Fireplace - Seelye Mansion

I entered through the back door, just across from the building that served as Dr. A.B. Seelye's workshop, and home to more than 100 medical and other products that were distributed across 14 states. But my tour began in the beautifully appointed and spacious living room where stunning Tiffany-designed mosaic decorated the fireplace face and Edison lights illuminated the space.

Curved wall with window, Seelye Mansion

Much of the décor in this lovely 11,000-square-foot home came from the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. Delicate lace curtains flanked a high leaded glass window that followed the subtly curved wall and low radiator. A stunning gold side table stood atop a richly hued Oriental rug.

Elegant table service, Seelye Mansion

Crystal and gold bowls, and sterling candlesticks decorated a long table in the elegant dining room while a pair of antique dolls stood on the single side table in this bright and airy bedroom shared by Dr. Seelye's daughters.

Daughters' bedroom, Seelye Mansion

The upstairs ballroom astounded me with its beautifully maintained, highly polished floor and arched ceiling. Modest bedrooms encircled the space, which Mrs. Seelye frequently offered as a weekend sanctuary for soldiers who were stationed at the nearby Fort Riley.

Upstairs ballroom, Seelye Mansion

Twenty-five rooms, original furnishings and a very devoted owner/caretaker - Terry Tietjens - introduce visitors to one of the finest homes built between Kansas City and Denver, during the early 1900s.

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LINKS - LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Crossing Kansas Blog: http://crossingkansas.blogspot.com/

Lisa Waterman Gray - The Storyteller: www.thestorytellerkc.net/
Email: thestoryteller@everestkc.net

LINKS - SEELYE MANSION

Seelye Mansion Site: www.seelyemansion.org/

Abilene Tourism Site: www.abilenecityhall.com/ 

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead, Overland Park

Our granddaughters love the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Nancy and I enjoy it as well. That means we have a fun, no-fail day's activity within a short drive whenever there is an opportunity to spend some with the kiddies. Neither Nancy nor I have any family left who are still involved in farming, so the Deanna Rose is the closest we can get to teaching our little ones about life away from the suburbs.

There are a number of attractions in Overland Park, but in this writer's opinion, nothing tops the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Judging by the attendance, even on its last day of the season when these photos were taken, there are lots of folks who agree with me. For out of town visitors, especially those with youngsters, or grandparents in town for a visit, the farmstead is a great place to let the little ones run around and play in an educational environment.

The 12-acre city-owned farmstead was first opened in 1978. In 1985, it was re-named to honor Deanna Rose, the first Overland Park police officer killed in the line of duty. Recent years have witnessed a steady growth in attendance (over 450,000 in 2010) and attractions, and a number of "Coming Soon" signs prove the growth is not going to stop soon.

Dairy Barn

Volunteers are crucial to the existence of the Deanna Rose Farmstead, and the vast number of individuals and corporations involved would seem to disprove any notion that folks in the 'burbs lack community spirit.

Granddaughter Brooklyn said "Moo," the calf responded in kind.

Indian encampment area

A wooded area within the grounds is dedicated to the native tribes who lived in this area prior to the coming of the European settlers. The centerpiece of this exhibit is an authentic re-creation of an earthen lodge in the manner of the Kanza tribe. I spoke for a few moments with the exhibit interpreter, a woman of Huron lineage who was on hand to teach children about the lodge. Based on her own research, she was impressed with the attention to detail and accuracy exhibited in the lodge.

Sydney feeding pygmy goats

Brooklyn tries to copy her sister

Little fire fighter dismounts after his horse ride

Sydney on her Farmall tractor

Conestoga Wagon

General store, ice cream parlor, bank

In the general store

"Live?" entertainment in the general store

Wood stove and checkerboard in the general store

Entry to one of the play areas - a Rotary Club project

Tom

Readying for a hay rack ride

Bald Eagle

Late season fall color

HOURS, ADMISSION, LOCATION
The Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead is open 9 am to 5 pm April 1 through October 31. During peak summer months it remains open until 8 pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

There is a $2 admission charge Friday through Sunday (children 1 and under free); and no admission charge Monday - Thursday.

The street address is 13800 Switzer, Overland Park, Kansas. From I-35 or US 69, exit at 135th Street (also known as Santa Fe in Olathe).
 

View Larger Map

LINKS:

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead: www.opkansas.org/Things-to-See-And-Do/Deanna-Rose-Childrens-Farmstead
Overland Park Tourism: www.visitoverlandpark.com/
Friends of the Farmstead: http://artsandrec-op.org/farmstead/

The Border Queen

Shotgun Quiz: There were six major cattle trailheads in early Kansas - each a rough and tumble place where trail hands could expect all kinds of excitement when the herd reached its destination and was sold.  How many of the six can you name? Dodge City and Abilene come to most minds immediately, then Wichita. After a little thought, some will remember that Newton and Ellsworth had their days of "glory" as well. Hays? No, not Hays. I guess the image below has given it away by now. It's Caldwell - "The Border Queen." Never heard of it? Well belly up to the bar, cowhands, I'll tell you about that wicked "Border Queen," Caldwell, Kansas.

Located on the Chisholm Trail just north of the Kansas state line, and the first town outside of Indian Territory, Caldwell became an eagerly-awaited destination for dusty, bored cowboys ready to let off a little steam en route to the rail heads at Wichita and Abilene. When the Santa Fe Railway extended its line to Caldwell in 1879, the little town known as the Border Queen grew quickly, as did the numbers of saloons, gambling houses, and brothels. One Caldwell tour guide and historian has been quoted as telling visitors that his hometown once had more prostitutes per capita than any place in the world. [I guess we'll just have to take his word for that, because however would you, if you were so inclined, research that peculiar topic?]

1881 Opera House

Border Queen Museum Exhibits

Chisholm Trail Marker and mural

Kathy Weiser, in her article "Caldwell - The Wicked Border Queen," reports that "...between 1879 and 1885, Caldwell 'boasted' a higher murder rate, and loss of more law enforcement officers than other more famous cowtowns. During this period, violence claimed the lives of 18 city marshals, leading a Wichita editor to write, 'As we go to press hell is again in session in Caldwell.'"* 

Visitors to Caldwell can see what is left of an authentic Boot Hill - no cartoonish grave markers or made-up names here to lure tourists. It is believed there were once approximately 60 graves in Boot Hill, but many of the markers have disappeared over the ages. How many bodies lie below the wheat fields surrounding the current cemetery? Who knows?

Located south of town on US Highway 81, on the route of the old Chisholm Trail, is an evocative reminder of those who rode the long, dusty trail - "The Ghost Riders Silhouettes." The monument was added to the Sumner County landscape in 1995 thanks to local labor and donations. How appropriate that at the precise moment I began to take photos standing next to one of the trail's successors (the highway), a train would be speeding along on another.

 
A word about Jesse Chisholm: I was surprised to learn that Jesse Chisholm never participated in any of the cattle drives along the Chisholm Trail, and had passed away by the time the larger numbers of cattle herds were being driven to Kansas. The son of a Scottish merchant and slave-trader father and a Cherokee mother, Jesse became a master of a number of Indian languages and dialects, a guide and interpreter, and the owner of trading posts in Indian Territory. It was these outposts that gave the Chisholm name to the trail.

Unlike some sister towns in Sumner County, Caldwell survives. Sumner City, which once had a population greater than any town in the county today, with a horse racing track visible from the air into the 1950s, has completely vanished**. The stories of early Caldwell are still around, as well as some remnants and relics of its exciting past. 

Finally, Caldwell is also known as The Ornate Box Turtle Capital of Kansas Forgetting this during my visit, I failed to take a photo of the colorful box turtle mural on the side of one the town businesses.

*from a detailed account of Caldwell's early history at: www.legendsofamerica.com/ks-caldwell.html

** More on the disappearance of Sumner City and the alleged role of one of my Hackney ancestors in its demise will be explored someday in a posting of Memories from My Life's Journey

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Nearby:

Enroute to Caldwell, I sought out the site of the old mill at Drury, a few miles east of Caldwell on the Chikaskia (pronounced shuh-KASK-ee locally) River. My 94-year old mother still has memories of picnics and wading in the cool waters. I'm not certain, but think her papa might have taken grain there for milling, although the mill at Oxford would have been closer. The mill building itself burned to the ground in 1953 and only some of its foundation and the dam survive. There is a small park at the now, with picnic and restroom facilities.

Educator, naturalist, and photographer Larry Miller has reported that David Carradine and Hollywood film crews used the area as a movie location in 1973 and showed photos of it while being interviewed by Johnny Carson on the "Tonight Show."  Carradine was  involved in the "Kung Fu" television series at the time, but I have no knowledge if portions of that show were filmed at Drury or the Chikaskia River.

Other Links of Interest:

The "Official Sesquicentennial Cattle Drive" ~ 400 head of Texas Longhorns will be driven from Caldwell to Ellsworth. Labor Day weekend.   http://www.kansascattledrive2011.com/ 


The Official Caldwell, Kansas Web Site: www.caldwellkansas.com/

The Red Hills

The Red Hills of Barber and Comanche counties* fascinate me. The terrain is unlike much of Kansas, particularly the flat wheat belt where I was born and raised. It has long been my intention to return to that area  to try my hand at photographing those landscapes. The first week of May of this year, I was able to accomplish that. I had hoped that the hills and grasslands would have greened up by this time and that the wildflowers might be in bloom. Apparently I was about a week to ten days to early for that, although some wildflowers were beginning to pop up.

The Red Hills get their color from the oxidation of the sedimentary iron deposits left during the Permian Period, 250 to 300 million years ago. The hills are also known as the Gypsum (or Gyp) Hills due to the large natural deposits of gypsum, which are mined in the vicinity.

US Highway 160 from Medicine Lodge to Coldwater (42 miles) cuts through the area and is known as the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway. There is another scenic drive on county roads which begins just west of Medicine Lodge. These scenic drives are collectively one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Geography Better views, however, are obtained by getting off the highway.


You must "dare to do dirt" to really see this country.

The Landscape

Branding Time at the Marsh Ranch

While driving along the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, I noticed a lot of activity going on at one of the corrals, and pulled off onto the right of way. I tried to take some long-distance photos with my long zoom lens without much to show for it. A distinguished-looking man in western working attire came over to me and introduced himself as Mr. Marsh, the owner of the Marsh Ranch headquartered in nearby Sun City, and asked me if I would like to come in for a closer look. Absolutely! He was preparing to leave and offered me the use of his mount, but as I have not been on horseback in a "few years," and have had several shoulder, knee, and other surgeries in the intervening period, I decided this would nor be a good time to make a fool of myself in front of these professional horsemen and women.

The cowboys and women were branding calves, attaching fly tags to the ears, and administering spring vaccinations, a process requiring skill, teamwork, and horsemanship. I had seen these and similar skills on display at the State Ranch Rodeo Championships at Medicine Lodge, but this was my first opportunity to watch it "up close and personal," and "for real." A big thanks to the Marshes and their crew for allowing me to photograph them at work.  

Sun City
Population 53. That's down from 81 in 2000. What is Sun City known for? Perhaps the whiskey-fueled gunfight in 1880 that left one Mr. Adams mortally wounded as a result of  a billiards wager. Maybe the 1883 cyclone that killed three townspeople. Folks in the know, however, would tell you unequivocally that Buster's Smokehouse Bar and Grill is what keeps Sun City on the map. Buster and his wife Alma have been dead quite some time now, but this iconic Sun City landmark just keeps going.

You can even find Buster's on Facebook:  http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001319851865

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* Red Hills ~ Much of the area known as the Red Hills is located in Clark County as well, including the three highest points in the area: Mount Nebo, Mount Jesus, and Mount Lookout. I hope to visit Clark County on another photo journey. 

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Some Links of Interest:

Medicine Lodge, Kansas - At the eastern end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, a colorful and historic frontier town. Long-time camping ground for plains Indians, site of a landmark peace treaty between natives and the US government, and later home to that hatchet-yielding prohibitionist Carrie Nation. http://www.cyberlodg.com/mlcity/

Medicine Lodge Indian Peace Treaty Pageant - http://www.peacetreaty.org/ My first visit to Medicine Lodge and this pageant at age twelve made a huge impression on me. Not much was different when Nancy and I took in the festivities a couple of years ago. The event is held every three years, and this (2011) is the year. Parades, a large-scale pageant on a 40 acre "stage," a Plains Indians pow wow, and a rodeo are just part of what happens.

Coldwater, Kansas - At the western end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway. Served as my home base while exploring the area. http://www.coldwaterkansas.com/

Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway - http://www.ksbyways.org/Pages/Gypsum/gypsum1.html

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© text and photos Frank Thompson