The Red Hills

The Red Hills of Barber and Comanche counties* fascinate me. The terrain is unlike much of Kansas, particularly the flat wheat belt where I was born and raised. It has long been my intention to return to that area  to try my hand at photographing those landscapes. The first week of May of this year, I was able to accomplish that. I had hoped that the hills and grasslands would have greened up by this time and that the wildflowers might be in bloom. Apparently I was about a week to ten days to early for that, although some wildflowers were beginning to pop up.

The Red Hills get their color from the oxidation of the sedimentary iron deposits left during the Permian Period, 250 to 300 million years ago. The hills are also known as the Gypsum (or Gyp) Hills due to the large natural deposits of gypsum, which are mined in the vicinity.

US Highway 160 from Medicine Lodge to Coldwater (42 miles) cuts through the area and is known as the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway. There is another scenic drive on county roads which begins just west of Medicine Lodge. These scenic drives are collectively one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Geography Better views, however, are obtained by getting off the highway.


You must "dare to do dirt" to really see this country.

The Landscape

Branding Time at the Marsh Ranch

While driving along the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, I noticed a lot of activity going on at one of the corrals, and pulled off onto the right of way. I tried to take some long-distance photos with my long zoom lens without much to show for it. A distinguished-looking man in western working attire came over to me and introduced himself as Mr. Marsh, the owner of the Marsh Ranch headquartered in nearby Sun City, and asked me if I would like to come in for a closer look. Absolutely! He was preparing to leave and offered me the use of his mount, but as I have not been on horseback in a "few years," and have had several shoulder, knee, and other surgeries in the intervening period, I decided this would nor be a good time to make a fool of myself in front of these professional horsemen and women.

The cowboys and women were branding calves, attaching fly tags to the ears, and administering spring vaccinations, a process requiring skill, teamwork, and horsemanship. I had seen these and similar skills on display at the State Ranch Rodeo Championships at Medicine Lodge, but this was my first opportunity to watch it "up close and personal," and "for real." A big thanks to the Marshes and their crew for allowing me to photograph them at work.  

Sun City
Population 53. That's down from 81 in 2000. What is Sun City known for? Perhaps the whiskey-fueled gunfight in 1880 that left one Mr. Adams mortally wounded as a result of  a billiards wager. Maybe the 1883 cyclone that killed three townspeople. Folks in the know, however, would tell you unequivocally that Buster's Smokehouse Bar and Grill is what keeps Sun City on the map. Buster and his wife Alma have been dead quite some time now, but this iconic Sun City landmark just keeps going.

You can even find Buster's on Facebook:  http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001319851865

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* Red Hills ~ Much of the area known as the Red Hills is located in Clark County as well, including the three highest points in the area: Mount Nebo, Mount Jesus, and Mount Lookout. I hope to visit Clark County on another photo journey. 

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Some Links of Interest:

Medicine Lodge, Kansas - At the eastern end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, a colorful and historic frontier town. Long-time camping ground for plains Indians, site of a landmark peace treaty between natives and the US government, and later home to that hatchet-yielding prohibitionist Carrie Nation. http://www.cyberlodg.com/mlcity/

Medicine Lodge Indian Peace Treaty Pageant - http://www.peacetreaty.org/ My first visit to Medicine Lodge and this pageant at age twelve made a huge impression on me. Not much was different when Nancy and I took in the festivities a couple of years ago. The event is held every three years, and this (2011) is the year. Parades, a large-scale pageant on a 40 acre "stage," a Plains Indians pow wow, and a rodeo are just part of what happens.

Coldwater, Kansas - At the western end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway. Served as my home base while exploring the area. http://www.coldwaterkansas.com/

Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway - http://www.ksbyways.org/Pages/Gypsum/gypsum1.html

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© text and photos Frank Thompson

Scott State Park

From the archives -

I am reaching into my photo archives to bring you this Kansas Journey report. The recent heat and humidity stifled any desires I might have had to load up the Rodeo and hit the road. (And there is an upcoming "trip of a lifetime" to save money for, but that is another story, as they say.)

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Nancy and I traveled to Scott State Park in October, 2007, long before I began doing a Kansas Journeys blog. Although I have made only the one visit, Scott is still a favorite place, one I like to tell people about.

Scott State Park was a major surprise to me - one of the most pleasant surprises in my Kansas travels. Certainly I have been to places equally scenic, and to other beautiful places with rugged landscapes that unknowing masses would not associate with a state that is "flat as a pancake." But none of those have exceeded my expectations as did Scott State Park.

Oasis is a word commonly used to describe the setting of this state park, one that is quite fitting in my opinion. Located on the short grass prairies of western Kansas, its 100-acre springfed lake, wooded canyons and craggy bluffs provide a stark contrast to the surrounding landscape. Wildlife is found in abundance at this oasis: deer (whitetails and mule-deer), bobcats, wild turkey, foxes, and numerous types of reptiles.

The golden color of the cottonwood trees in these photos provides evidence that we were there in the autumn - October to be exact. It was lovely! The few campers and fishermen there at the time were enjoying the beautiful surroundings and the pleasant weather.

I think it would be interesting to view the lake and its shoreline by canoe, available at park, as are paddle boats, but wonder if I would dare take one of my high-end cameras in a canoe? Probably not.

This is a "full-service" park, with numerous camp sites (primitive or with facilities) and shower buildings, a playground and beach, nature trails for hikers or horseback riders, a horse camp, and a concession stand. The web site of the state parks (link below) indicates that Scott is one of the sites at which cabins are being built. [I certainly welcome the addition of cabins to our state parks, and hope to check out some of these cabins in the future.]

El Quartelejo (El Cuartelejo) Pueblo Ruins

Within the park grounds is one of Kansas' most significant archeological finds - the excavated foundations of an Indian pueblo dating to 1664, the northeasternmost such pueblo established. According to historians, Taos Indians fled Spanish rule and settled amongst the plains Indians at this site. Sometime prior to 1680, a Spanish military expedition returned the Taos to their original home, but in 1696 a band of Picuris pueblo Indians joined their plains Apache trading partners at El Quartelejo. Ten years later, the Picuris met the same fate as their Taos Indian predecessors. The Quartelejo Apaches abandoned the pueblo in the 1730s after a series of raids by  Pawnee, Ute, and Comanche warriors.

The story of the ruins' discovery in 1888 is interesting in itself. Herbert L. Steele, one of Scott County's earliest settlers discovered and was re-using the irrigation ditches from the pueblo, then began finding artifacts from the earlier habitation. One newspaper account tells of him seeing ground squirrels carrying parched corn from holes in the ground. Steele notified the Kansas Historical Society of his findings. The first archeological dig began in 1897 under the guidance of two paleontology professors from the University of Kansas. El Quartelejo (or Cuartelejo) was added to the Register of National Historic places in 1965.

By necessity, I have kept my narrative regarding this Kansas historic treasure brief. There is a great deal more interesting reading at the two El Quartelejo links listed below, including some fascinating Indian legends related to the area.

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Visiting the area: With the thought in mind that a large percentage of my readers are located in the northeast corner of Kansas, a long drive from Scott County, I would like to offer some suggestions.

• For those families who like to camp, fish, enjoy the water, this is an excellent destination unto itself. Note - small lake may not support boating other than those with trolling motors. Check it out.
• Scott State Park is very close to one of the state's most striking geological formations, one of the 8 Original Wonders of Kansas - Monument Rocks and Castle Rock. Both are located in Gove County
• There are a number of other sites in central and western Kansas that can be combined into a unique road trip. If you would like to plan such an outing and need help figuring out what there is to see and do, send me a note. I'll be glad to offer suggestions and/or help you find resources.
• Those who make frequent trips to the mountains might find it worthwhile to spend a day at these and other Kansas sites of interest. Many are not far from I-70.

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Helpful Links:

• Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks - Scott State Park Page:  http://kdwp.state.ks.us/news/State-Parks/Locations/Scott

• 8 Wonders of Kansas - Scott State Park Page: www.kansassampler.org/8wonders/8wondersofkansas-view.php?id=32

• Scott City (closest town for lodging and dining plus a Quartelejo museum): www.scottcitycofc.com/travel

• History of El Quartelejo: www.keystonegallery.com/area/history/el_cuartelejo

• El Cuartelejo, finalist for the 8 Wonders of Kansas History: www.kansassampler.org/8wonders/historyresults.php?id=297 

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Barring unexpected developments, this will be my last Kansas Journeys blog posting until much later in the year. Nancy and I will be taking an extended trip to Italy this fall. I have set up a blogspot site in which I hope to keep our friends up-to-date on our whereabouts. It is our goal to post a photo or two, plus a very brief report daily, or as often as possible. Follow us at:

http://franknancyitaly.blogspot.com/