Troy

Nestled among the glaciated hills of the far northeastern corner of the state of Kansas, and right off of Highway K-7, is the small community of Troy, one of the oldest towns in the state, and home to several interesting sites. I have visited Troy on a couple of occasions, but Wednesday of this week was the since I began my Kansas Journeys blog in 2009.

Troy is best-known as the setting for one of Peter Toth's Indian carvings. Toth is a Hungarian-born resident of Florida whose "Trail of the Whispering Giants" includes 74 wood carvings honoring native Americans indigenous to the area in which the sculptures are placed.  The artist did not charge Troy to create the Whispering Giant, only to provide the materials, lodging and expenses.

The Troy monument represents a composite of the features and clothing customs of the Kickapoo, Pottawatomie, Iowa, Sac and Fox tribes, all of which have reservations in the area. Toth came to Doniphan County in 1978 to sculpt this work, the twenty-ninth completed. The burr oak log chosen (from a 100 foot tall tree) was 67 inches in diameter. When the sculpture was completed it was 27 feet in height.

Peter Toth's "rough" style is ideal to enable him to demonstrate the conditions in which the Indians lived. He noted that, like his Hungarian ancestors, they had been "driven from their land, ... abused and rejected, ... and suffered from humiliation and trickery"

The Indian Chief occupies a spot in front of the Doniphan County Courthouse, one of the numerous simple, but stately, courthouses designed by Kansan George P. Washburn. The Neo-Romanesque structure was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.

 The businesses and homes surrounding the courthouse square make up the Doniphan County Courthouse Square Historic District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2002.

Most of the buildings on the square are of Queen Anne or Italianate design. Fortunately the owners have not attempted to "contemporize" them by adding the abhorrent faux  modern facades so popular in the 1960s and 70s. Over the years, these buildings have served a number of purposes and survived a fire. Among the more intriguing uses? A second floor skating rink. (I'm wondering about the racket downstairs.) After a fire damaged the skating rink, it was rebuilt as the Leland Opera House in 1900.

 

It appeared that Simpson Hardware might have been in business in the not-too-distant past, but I didn't see anybody to ask.

 At first glance, I thought this cat was of the stuffed variety, part of an antique store's inventory. Wrong, guess it was there to control the mouse population.

The Lincoln Connection: Abraham Lincoln made one brief visit to Kansas Territory, that to make campaign speeches in 1859. 

Depending upon  which source you choose to believe, he gave a speech either on the courthouse steps or on the steps of a hotel (shown below in an earlier time, and as it is today). It has been reported that Lincoln used the occasion to fine-tune a speech he was preparing for an important occasion "back east." This writer is not an authority on Lincoln, but has family connections to him and has read much about him. It would be my opinion that he probably spoke from both places, and maybe even after emerging from an outhouse during his visit. Folks were drawn to him, and loved to hear his home-spun homilies and good-sense ideas.

I, for one, wish the balcony and woodwork were still present.

On a previous visit to Troy, I happened upon this house in the process of much-needed restoration and stopped to visit with the hometown folks, members of the Doniphan County Historical Society, who were making it happen. It is the oldest house in the county, built in 1856 of hand-hewn cottonwood and walnut by Nelson Rogers, Troy's first blacksmith and first postmaster. He sold the property to Sidney Tennant. Tennant, an attorney, had ties to Abraham Lincoln, and most likely entertained him here during his 1859 visit. The house sits across the street from the courthouse, and is included in the Doniphan County Courthouse Square Historic District.

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Visiting Troy ~ Troy is easily accessed from US Highway 36, or from Kansas Highway 7 on the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway.  You might add Troy to your itinerary if you are visiting Atchison, St. Joseph (MO), Highland, or Hiawatha ... Eating: The Kansas Guidebook for Explorers recommends Home Place Restaurant, open Mon-Fri for breakfast or lunch, Sunday for lunch. Specialties are reported to be Hungarian pork chops, sour cream dill chicken breast, and homemade bread and square pies.

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Trivia Question ~ For what pro-slavery Missourian was Doniphan County named? The answer can be found at: http://skyways.lib.ks.us/counties/DP/

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Nothing Flat About the Arikaree Breaks

I'm pleased to report that I was recently honored by a request from Kansas Travel and Tourism to share my recollections of a visit to Cheyenne County's Arikaree Breaks on the state's travel blog. I encourage you to check that piece out at:

http://blog.travelks.com/arikaree-breaks-nothing-flat-about-that/

Halfway to Santa Fe ~ Pawnee Rock

While doing some organizational work on my photo archives, I discovered a few photos that I had intended to post last spring. En route home from a photo "safari" to the Red Hills, we (Melody dog and I) had stopped briefly at Pawnee Rock, a little-known, but historically significant, landmark on the plains.In spite of its significance, I never got around to posting my photos.

Although Pawnee Rock State Historic Site is not exactly what you might call a "Wow!" place visually, it is a place of importance to those interested in the Santa Fe Trail in particular, or Plains Indians and Kansas history in general. Driving US 56 between Great Bend and Larned can see the mound from the highway, and it doesn't take a lengthy detour to drive over and check it out.

Prior to the arrival of European explorers and settlers, plains Indians used the mound, then about 150 feet taller than the surrounding flat-lands*, as an observation point from which to spot the vast herds of American bison which roamed the area, as well as warring rival tribes. Later on, it was also used to spy the wagon trains on the Santa Fe Trail which were crossing their hunting grounds.  Trail [travelers] were undoubtedly glad to reach Pawnee Rock as it meant they were half-way to Santa Fe, but they also knew that Indians could pose a danger at this point. In 1859, nearby Fort Larned (originally known as the "Camp on Pawnee Fork") was established making this stretch of the roadway a little more secure for travelers.

How did Pawnee Rock get its name? It depends upon whom you ask. Kansaspedia, a website of the Kansas Historical Society, outlines three versions of the story:

"Many stories have been told to explain how Pawnee Rock got its name. One tale relates that it was sacred ground for the Pawnee Indians who held tribal councils on its flat top. Another describes a great battle in which a small band of Pawnees was destroyed by a force of Kiowas, Cheyennes, and Arapahos. Both of these attribute the name to events in Pawnee lore that occurred near the Rock. A tradition among white plainsmen was that the Rock received its name in 1826 from an embarrassing mistake by Kit Carson. A raw youth of seventeen, Carson was on his first trip into the West. The wagon train with which he was working camped for the night near the Rock. He was given guard duty. In the dark, he shot his own mule, thinking it was an attacking Pawnee. His unkind associates commemorated his unfortunate experience with the name, Pawnee Rock."

www.kshs.org/kansapedia/pawnee-rock/11905 

Pawnee Rock State Historical Site is now administered by the Kansas Historical Society. The stone monument was dedicated in 1912. Pawnee Rock was added to the National Register of Historic Places around 1970.

* Modern visitors can easily observe that the "summit" of Pawnee Rock is somewhat lower than 150 feet. During the 1870s, the engineers building the nearby railway running parallel to the old Santa Fe Trail removed much of the rock for the purpose of fortifying the road bed. Some early settlers also made use of the stone as building material, and as a result, Pawnee Rock is now about half its original height.

Looking out from the monument across the croplands, use your imagination. Visualize a vast ocean of grass, enormous herds of American bison, or a line of oxen carts slogging along the Santa Fe Trail. That was the scene here - not that many generations ago.

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Learn more about Pawnee Rock at these sites:

I especially recommend this page at Legends of Kansas for its detailed history of the region and the town of Pawnee Rock: http://www.legendsofkansas.com/pawneerock.htmli 

This web page has a number of additional photos of Pawnee Rock, as well as interesting reading about the Smoky Hill and Santa Fe Trails. Scroll down to see Pawnee Rock photos:

http://www.historum.com/american-history/19145-howard-raynesford-smoky-hill-trail-2.html
 

Kansas State Historical Society: 

http://www.kshs.org/

Photos and text (except for that attributed to Kansas Historical Society)

copyright Frank Thompson

Visiting Abilene's Historic Seelye Mansion with Lisa Waterman Gray

It was an accidental meeting. While nursing my daily café latté at

 Lenexa's finest coffee house, I heard bits of pieces of a nearby conversation and surmised they were discussing Kansas and photography. Upon introducing myself, I learned that one of the folks was Lisa Waterman Gray, a name which I recognized, but could not remember why.  I later learned that Lisa is a much-published free lance writer whose credits include articles for Midwest Living; AAA's Midwest, Southern, and New Mexico Travel magazines; Kansas City Star; Christian Science Monitor; Delta Sky; KANSAS! Magazine, and numerous other magazines and journals. 

Lisa has recently published a guidebook for travelers, Explorer's Guide Kansas, as well as authoring a blog: Crossing Kansas.

I was recently honored by a request to do a "guest spot" on Crossing Kansas, and now have the privilege of returning that favor to Ms. Waterman Gray. I am pleased that she chose to share her views and photos of the historic Seelye Mansion in Abilene. I have driven by on several occasions, but never toured this majestic old home, one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Architecture.

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I pulled into the driveway of the graceful Historic Seelye Mansion, in Abilene, on a cool fall morning. Set against a cobalt sky and a wide expanse of emerald lawn and manicured gardens, the 1905 Georgian-style mansion combined a natural stone foundation with massive columns and expansive porches.

Tiffany Fireplace - Seelye Mansion

I entered through the back door, just across from the building that served as Dr. A.B. Seelye's workshop, and home to more than 100 medical and other products that were distributed across 14 states. But my tour began in the beautifully appointed and spacious living room where stunning Tiffany-designed mosaic decorated the fireplace face and Edison lights illuminated the space.

Curved wall with window, Seelye Mansion

Much of the décor in this lovely 11,000-square-foot home came from the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. Delicate lace curtains flanked a high leaded glass window that followed the subtly curved wall and low radiator. A stunning gold side table stood atop a richly hued Oriental rug.

Elegant table service, Seelye Mansion

Crystal and gold bowls, and sterling candlesticks decorated a long table in the elegant dining room while a pair of antique dolls stood on the single side table in this bright and airy bedroom shared by Dr. Seelye's daughters.

Daughters' bedroom, Seelye Mansion

The upstairs ballroom astounded me with its beautifully maintained, highly polished floor and arched ceiling. Modest bedrooms encircled the space, which Mrs. Seelye frequently offered as a weekend sanctuary for soldiers who were stationed at the nearby Fort Riley.

Upstairs ballroom, Seelye Mansion

Twenty-five rooms, original furnishings and a very devoted owner/caretaker - Terry Tietjens - introduce visitors to one of the finest homes built between Kansas City and Denver, during the early 1900s.

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LINKS - LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Crossing Kansas Blog: http://crossingkansas.blogspot.com/

Lisa Waterman Gray - The Storyteller: www.thestorytellerkc.net/
Email: thestoryteller@everestkc.net

LINKS - SEELYE MANSION

Seelye Mansion Site: www.seelyemansion.org/

Abilene Tourism Site: www.abilenecityhall.com/ 

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead, Overland Park

Our granddaughters love the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Nancy and I enjoy it as well. That means we have a fun, no-fail day's activity within a short drive whenever there is an opportunity to spend some with the kiddies. Neither Nancy nor I have any family left who are still involved in farming, so the Deanna Rose is the closest we can get to teaching our little ones about life away from the suburbs.

There are a number of attractions in Overland Park, but in this writer's opinion, nothing tops the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Judging by the attendance, even on its last day of the season when these photos were taken, there are lots of folks who agree with me. For out of town visitors, especially those with youngsters, or grandparents in town for a visit, the farmstead is a great place to let the little ones run around and play in an educational environment.

The 12-acre city-owned farmstead was first opened in 1978. In 1985, it was re-named to honor Deanna Rose, the first Overland Park police officer killed in the line of duty. Recent years have witnessed a steady growth in attendance (over 450,000 in 2010) and attractions, and a number of "Coming Soon" signs prove the growth is not going to stop soon.

Dairy Barn

Volunteers are crucial to the existence of the Deanna Rose Farmstead, and the vast number of individuals and corporations involved would seem to disprove any notion that folks in the 'burbs lack community spirit.

Granddaughter Brooklyn said "Moo," the calf responded in kind.

Indian encampment area

A wooded area within the grounds is dedicated to the native tribes who lived in this area prior to the coming of the European settlers. The centerpiece of this exhibit is an authentic re-creation of an earthen lodge in the manner of the Kanza tribe. I spoke for a few moments with the exhibit interpreter, a woman of Huron lineage who was on hand to teach children about the lodge. Based on her own research, she was impressed with the attention to detail and accuracy exhibited in the lodge.

Sydney feeding pygmy goats

Brooklyn tries to copy her sister

Little fire fighter dismounts after his horse ride

Sydney on her Farmall tractor

Conestoga Wagon

General store, ice cream parlor, bank

In the general store

"Live?" entertainment in the general store

Wood stove and checkerboard in the general store

Entry to one of the play areas - a Rotary Club project

Tom

Readying for a hay rack ride

Bald Eagle

Late season fall color

HOURS, ADMISSION, LOCATION
The Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead is open 9 am to 5 pm April 1 through October 31. During peak summer months it remains open until 8 pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

There is a $2 admission charge Friday through Sunday (children 1 and under free); and no admission charge Monday - Thursday.

The street address is 13800 Switzer, Overland Park, Kansas. From I-35 or US 69, exit at 135th Street (also known as Santa Fe in Olathe).
 

View Larger Map

LINKS:

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead: www.opkansas.org/Things-to-See-And-Do/Deanna-Rose-Childrens-Farmstead
Overland Park Tourism: www.visitoverlandpark.com/
Friends of the Farmstead: http://artsandrec-op.org/farmstead/

Maple Leaf Festival, Baldwin

Autumn is a season of festivals throughout the world. For centuries, we have given thanks for the harvest and enjoyed one last celebration before the arrival of winter.

Many communities celebrate the brilliant colors of autumn. One nearby is Baldwin (City), one of Kansas' early settlements. Baldwin is blessed with large and attractive old trees - most notably the maples which annually cloak the city with a bright red tapestry.  The Maple Leaf festival, held annually on the third full weekend of October, has become a major attraction, drawing huge crowds from surrounding counties and from Missouri.

Baldwin's able festival planners have no control over is Mother Nature. Due to recent climate conditions, many of the normally brilliant maple trees were instead a dull, crunchy brown, but even that didn't effect the festival activities or the crowds.

Taking advantage of a beautiful sunny day, my wife Nancy, daughter Allison, and grand-daughters Sydney (almost 5) and Brooklyn (18 months), and I made the short drive west US Highway 56 (following the route of the old Santa Fe Trail) to view the Maple Leaf Festival Parade. From a neighborhood street where we were able to find a parking space, it was a bit of a hike to the parade route, but once the parade started, the grand-kids were transported.

[The parade photos that follow were taken from curb level, and facing the sun. Parade organizers almost always route parades that way for some reason.]

The Color Guard

Kansas National Guard Band

What little boy would not be excited to ride in a firetruck in a parade?

Nostalgia --- a Plymouth Belvedere!

Re-enactors recall early days on the Santa Fe Trail

Thinking Pink for breast cancer awareness - old International Harvester tractor

Young members of The Dazzlers - a Christian troupe for drill team, acrobatics, etc.

Street Rod - a Ford?

A '29 Ford - and a flapper chick

Piccolo picker - Tonganoxie Chieftain Marching Band

Colorful flags of the states - presented by local Knights of Columbus

Is it possible that Dorothy had an adventure in Oz that is not recorded in Frank Baum's book?

Truth in T-shirts! My favorite band t-shirt.

Scrambling for candy!

Missouri Bushwhacker re-enactor terrorizes Douglas County

Sydney and Brooklyn loved the horsies!

Different style of equestrian

Still thinking pink...

Not pictured here are the numerous crafts and gifts booths - a major draw at the Maple Leaf Festival. As at most such events, a variety of crafts are represented, in a wide range of prices and quality.

Food? - of course, lots of the familiar fair food options, provided by local organizations. The longest food lines? - for kettle corn and funnel cakes, of course. I stood in line for quite a while to get bison burger at the American Legion hall, too.

The color of the "necessary facilities" made up for some of the missing red (foliage).

Other events taking place at the festival include a country music tent (free), foot races, a carnival, petting zoo, open houses around town and at some of the historic sites mentioned below.


A Few Words About Baldwin:
For those unfamiliar with Baldwin, it is a community steeped in history, located south of Lawrence and west of Olathe on the route of the Santa Fe Trail. It is home to Kansas' oldest college, Baker University, which houses several interesting old buildings (including stately old Parmenter Hall shown below) plus the Quayle Rare Bible Collection. Of considerable historic interest is the Black Jack Battlefield, site of the Civil War's first battle (1856) between organized militia representing northern and southern interests. Nearby is a small section of tall grass prairie where visitors can walk among the swales (super-sized ruts) created by the heavy weight of oxen and freight wagons over the Santa Fe Trail.

Long-time readers of my blog may remember my 2009 blog entry about riding the rails on the Midland Railway. That, too, is located at Baldwin, just another of the many reasons to visit this charming little town.