Frank Thompson's Kansas Journeys

Halfway to Santa Fe ~ Pawnee Rock

2012-02-03T13:51:00.000-06:00

While doing some organizational work on my photo archives, I discovered a few photos that I had intended to post last spring. En route home from a photo "safari" to the Red Hills, we (Melody dog and I) had stopped briefly at Pawnee Rock, a little-known, but historically significant, landmark on the plains.In spite of its significance, I never got around to posting my photos.

Although Pawnee Rock State Historic Site is not exactly what you might call a "Wow!" place visually, it is a place of importance to those interested in the Santa Fe Trail in particular, or Plains Indians and Kansas history in general. Driving US 56 between Great Bend and Larned can see the mound from the highway, and it doesn't take a lengthy detour to drive over and check it out.

Prior to the arrival of European explorers and settlers, plains Indians used the mound, then about 150 feet taller than the surrounding flat-lands*, as an observation point from which to spot the vast herds of American bison which roamed the area, as well as warring rival tribes. Later on, it was also used to spy the wagon trains on the Santa Fe Trail which were crossing their hunting grounds. Trail [travelers] were undoubtedly glad to reach Pawnee Rock as it meant they were half-way to Santa Fe, but they also knew that Indians could pose a danger at this point. In 1859, nearby Fort Larned (originally known as the "Camp on Pawnee Fork") was established making this stretch of the roadway a little more secure for travelers.

How did Pawnee Rock get its name? It depends upon whom you ask. Kansaspedia, a website of the Kansas Historical Society, outlines three versions of the story:

"Many stories have been told to explain how Pawnee Rock got its name. One tale relates that it was sacred ground for the Pawnee Indians who held tribal councils on its flat top. Another describes a great battle in which a small band of Pawnees was destroyed by a force of Kiowas, Cheyennes, and Arapahos. Both of these attribute the name to events in Pawnee lore that occurred near the Rock. A tradition among white plainsmen was that the Rock received its name in 1826 from an embarrassing mistake by Kit Carson. A raw youth of seventeen, Carson was on his first trip into the West. The wagon train with which he was working camped for the night near the Rock. He was given guard duty. In the dark, he shot his own mule, thinking it was an attacking Pawnee. His unkind associates commemorated his unfortunate experience with the name, Pawnee Rock."

www.kshs.org/kansapedia/pawnee-rock/11905

Pawnee Rock State Historical Site is now administered by the Kansas Historical Society. The stone monument was dedicated in 1912. Pawnee Rock was added to the National Register of Historic Places around 1970.

* Modern visitors can easily observe that the "summit" of Pawnee Rock is somewhat lower than 150 feet. During the 1870s, the engineers building the nearby railway running parallel to the old Santa Fe Trail removed much of the rock for the purpose of fortifying the road bed. Some early settlers also made use of the stone as building material, and as a result, Pawnee Rock is now about half its original height.

Looking out from the monument across the croplands, use your imagination. Visualize a vast ocean of grass, enormous herds of American bison, or a line of oxen carts slogging along the Santa Fe Trail. That was the scene here - not that many generations ago.

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Learn more about Pawnee Rock at these sites:

I especially recommend this page at Legends of Kansas for its detailed history of the region and the town of Pawnee Rock: http://www.legendsofkansas.com/pawneerock.htmli

This web page has a number of additional photos of Pawnee Rock, as well as interesting reading about the Smoky Hill and Santa Fe Trails. Scroll down to see Pawnee Rock photos:

http://www.historum.com/american-history/19145-howard-raynesford-smoky-hill-trail-2.html

Kansas State Historical Society:

http://www.kshs.org/

Photos and text (except for that attributed to Kansas Historical Society)

Visiting Abilene's Historic Seelye Mansion with Lisa Waterman Gray

2011-11-21T06:00:00.000-06:00

It was an accidental meeting. While nursing my daily café latté at

Lenexa's finest coffee house, I heard bits of pieces of a nearby conversation and surmised they were discussing Kansas and photography. Upon introducing myself, I learned that one of the folks was Lisa Waterman Gray, a name which I recognized, but could not remember why. I later learned that Lisa is a much-published free lance writer whose credits include articles for Midwest Living; AAA's Midwest, Southern, and New Mexico Travel magazines; Kansas City Star; Christian Science Monitor; Delta Sky; KANSAS! Magazine, and numerous other magazines and journals.

Lisa has recently published a guidebook for travelers, Explorer's Guide Kansas, as well as authoring a blog: Crossing Kansas.

I was recently honored by a request to do a "guest spot" on Crossing Kansas, and now have the privilege of returning that favor to Ms. Waterman Gray. I am pleased that she chose to share her views and photos of the historic Seelye Mansion in Abilene. I have driven by on several occasions, but never toured this majestic old home, one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Architecture.

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I pulled into the driveway of the gracefulHistoric Seelye Mansion, in Abilene, on a cool fall morning. Setagainst a cobalt sky and a wide expanse of emerald lawn and manicuredgardens, the 1905 Georgian-style mansion combined a natural stonefoundation with massive columns and expansive porches.

Tiffany Fireplace - Seelye Mansion

Ientered through the back door, just across from the building thatserved as Dr. A.B. Seelye's workshop, and home to more than 100medical and other products that were distributed across 14 states.But my tour began in the beautifully appointed and spacious livingroom where stunning Tiffany-designed mosaic decorated the fireplaceface and Edison lights illuminated the space.


Curved wall with window, Seelye Mansion

Muchof the décor in this lovely 11,000-square-foot home came from the1904 St. Louis World's Fair. Delicate lace curtains flanked a highleaded glass window that followed the subtly curved wall and lowradiator. A stunning gold side table stood atop a richly huedOriental rug.

Elegant table service, Seelye Mansion

Crystaland gold bowls, and sterling candlesticks decorated a long table inthe elegant dining room while a pair of antique dolls stood on thesingle side table in this bright and airy bedroom shared by Dr.Seelye's daughters.

Daughters' bedroom, Seelye Mansion

Theupstairs ballroom astounded me with its beautifully maintained,highly polished floor and arched ceiling. Modest bedrooms encircledthe space, which Mrs. Seelye frequently offered as a weekendsanctuary for soldiers who were stationed at the nearby Fort Riley.

Upstairs ballroom, Seelye Mansion

Twenty-fiverooms, original furnishings and a very devoted owner/caretaker -Terry Tietjens - introduce visitors to one of the finest homes builtbetween Kansas City and Denver, during the early 1900s.

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LINKS - LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Crossing Kansas Blog: http://crossingkansas.blogspot.com/

Lisa Waterman Gray - The Storyteller: www.thestorytellerkc.net/
Email: thestoryteller@everestkc.net

LINKS - SEELYE MANSION

Seelye Mansion Site: www.seelyemansion.org/

Abilene Tourism Site: www.abilenecityhall.com/

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead, Overland Park

2011-11-02T14:42:00.000-05:00

Our granddaughters love the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Nancy and I enjoy it as well. That means we have a fun, no-fail day's activity within a short drive whenever there is an opportunity to spend some with the kiddies. Neither Nancy nor I have any family left who are still involved in farming, so the Deanna Rose is the closest we can get to teaching our little ones about life away from the suburbs.

There are a number of attractions in Overland Park, but in this writer's opinion, nothing tops the Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead. Judging by the attendance, even on its last day of the season when these photos were taken, there are lots of folks who agree with me. For out of town visitors, especially those with youngsters, or grandparents in town for a visit, the farmstead is a great place to let the little ones run around and play in an educational environment.

The 12-acre city-owned farmstead was first opened in 1978. In 1985, it was re-named to honor Deanna Rose, the first Overland Park police officer killed in the line of duty. Recent years have witnessed a steady growth in attendance (over 450,000 in 2010) and attractions, and a number of "Coming Soon" signs prove the growth is not going to stop soon.

Dairy Barn

Volunteers are crucial to the existence of the Deanna Rose Farmstead, and the vast number of individuals and corporations involved would seem to disprove any notion that folks in the 'burbs lack community spirit.

Granddaughter Brooklyn said "Moo," the calf responded in kind.

Indian encampment area

A wooded area within the grounds is dedicated to the native tribes who lived in this area prior to the coming of the European settlers. The centerpiece of this exhibit is an authentic re-creation of an earthen lodge in the manner of the Kanza tribe. I spoke for a few moments with the exhibit interpreter, a woman of Huron lineage who was on hand to teach children about the lodge. Based on her own research, she was impressed with the attention to detail and accuracy exhibited in the lodge.

Sydney feeding pygmy goats

Brooklyn tries to copy her sister

Little fire fighter dismounts after his horse ride

Sydney on her Farmall tractor

Conestoga Wagon

General store, ice cream parlor, bank

In the general store

"Live?" entertainment in the general store

Wood stove and checkerboard in the general store

Entry to one of the play areas - a Rotary Club project

Tom

Readying for a hay rack ride

Bald Eagle

Late season fall color

HOURS, ADMISSION, LOCATION
The Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead is open 9 am to 5 pm April 1 through October 31. During peak summer months it remains open until 8 pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

There is a $2 admission charge Friday through Sunday (children 1 and under free); and no admission charge Monday - Thursday.

The street address is 13800 Switzer, Overland Park, Kansas. From I-35 or US 69, exit at 135th Street (also known as Santa Fe in Olathe).

View Larger Map

LINKS:

Deanna Rose Children's Farmstead: www.opkansas.org/Things-to-See-And-Do/Deanna-Rose-Childrens-Farmstead
Overland Park Tourism: www.visitoverlandpark.com/
Friends of the Farmstead: http://artsandrec-op.org/farmstead/

Maple Leaf Festival, Baldwin

2011-10-19T13:25:00.000-05:00

Autumn is a season of festivals throughout the world. For centuries, we have given thanks for the harvest and enjoyed one last celebration before the arrival of winter.

Many communities celebrate the brilliant colors of autumn. One nearby is Baldwin (City), one of Kansas' early settlements. Baldwin is blessed with large and attractive old trees - most notably the maples which annually cloak the city with a bright red tapestry. The Maple Leaf festival, held annually on the third full weekend of October, has become a major attraction, drawing huge crowds from surrounding counties and from Missouri.

Baldwin's able festival planners have no control over is Mother Nature. Due to recent climate conditions, many of the normally brilliant maple trees were instead a dull, crunchy brown, but even that didn't effect the festival activities or the crowds.

Taking advantage of a beautiful sunny day, my wife Nancy, daughter Allison, and grand-daughters Sydney (almost 5) and Brooklyn (18 months), and I made the short drive west US Highway 56 (following the route of the old Santa Fe Trail) to view the Maple Leaf Festival Parade. From a neighborhood street where we were able to find a parking space, it was a bit of a hike to the parade route, but once the parade started, the grand-kids were transported.

[The parade photos that follow were taken from curb level, and facing the sun. Parade organizers almost always route parades that way for some reason.]

The Color Guard

Kansas National Guard Band

What little boy would not be excited to ride in a firetruck in a parade?

Nostalgia --- a Plymouth Belvedere!

Re-enactors recall early days on the Santa Fe Trail

Thinking Pink for breast cancer awareness - old International Harvester tractor

Young members of The Dazzlers - a Christian troupe for drill team, acrobatics, etc.

Street Rod - a Ford?

A '29 Ford - and a flapper chick

Piccolo picker - Tonganoxie Chieftain Marching Band

Colorful flags of the states - presented by local Knights of Columbus

Is it possible that Dorothy had an adventure in Oz that is not recorded in Frank Baum's book?

Truth in T-shirts! My favorite band t-shirt.

Scrambling for candy!

Missouri Bushwhacker re-enactor terrorizes Douglas County

Sydney and Brooklyn loved the horsies!

Different style of equestrian

Still thinking pink...

Not pictured here are the numerous crafts and gifts booths - a major draw at the Maple Leaf Festival. As at most such events, a variety of crafts are represented, in a wide range of prices and quality.

Food? - of course, lots of the familiar fair food options, provided by local organizations. The longest food lines? - for kettle corn and funnel cakes, of course. I stood in line for quite a while to get bison burger at the American Legion hall, too.

The color of the "necessary facilities" made up for some of the missing red (foliage).

Other events taking place at the festival include a country music tent (free), foot races, a carnival, petting zoo, open houses around town and at some of the historic sites mentioned below.

A Few Words About Baldwin:
For those unfamiliar with Baldwin, it is a community steeped in history, located south of Lawrence and west of Olathe on the route of the Santa Fe Trail. It is home to Kansas' oldest college, Baker University, which houses several interesting old buildings (including stately old Parmenter Hall shown below) plus the Quayle Rare Bible Collection. Of considerable historic interest is the Black Jack Battlefield, site of the Civil War's first battle (1856) between organized militia representing northern and southern interests. Nearby is a small section of tall grass prairie where visitors can walk among the swales (super-sized ruts) created by the heavy weight of oxen and freight wagons over the Santa Fe Trail.

Long-time readers of my blog may remember my 2009 blog entry about riding the rails on the Midland Railway. That, too, is located at Baldwin, just another of the many reasons to visit this charming little town.

See Ya' at Winfield!

2011-09-20T15:06:00.001-05:00

See ya at Winfield!
To tens of thousands of acoustic music lovers and performers, See ya at Winfield! is more than a casual statement pertaining to a certain town in south central Kansas.

Winfield means Walnut Valley Festival and National Flatpicking Championships; it means camping on the banks of the Walnut River; late night jam sessions; family reunions; maybe even a little craziness.

For the musicians, Winfield is a homecoming, a much-anticipated gig where they can perform with admired colleagues on the festival stages, then join late-night jam sessions with
amateur pickers around fire pits.

The festival began in 1972 to host the National Guitar Flat-picking Championships. In its forty years, it has grown to a five-day event which also hosts the International Finger Style Guitar Championships, the International Autoharp Championship, National Championships for Mountain Dulcimer playing, Mandolin, Flat Pick Guitar, Hammer Dulcimer, and Bluegrass Banjo. There is also a Walnut Valley Old Time Fiddle competition.

This annual Brigadoon (as Dan Crary called it) would have been called a happening back in the 1960s. (Maybe that's why you see so many in tie-dye attire.) Floods, cold, tornadoes, heat waves, recessions, and the 9-11 disaster have not disrupted the festival, but have merely added to the legends and lore, the stories that begin with "remember that year when...?"

Lawrence, Kansas-based Bluestem, performing traditional western songs on Stage 1

Many think of Winfield as a bluegrass festival. Yes, it is a great venue to hear lots of fine bluegrass pickin,' but my wife and I schedule our days to take advantage of the variety - Celtic, folk, traditional old-timey, cowboy and western, Cajun, gospel, country swing, early rock, and just about anything acoustic that could be considered Americana or roots music. In other words, something for just about everybody. Four "official" stages are busy on the grounds, several more "unofficial" stages in the campgrounds, plus jamming just about anywhere.

Stage 2, The Greencards, 2007

There is a long list of famed acoustic musicians associated with the Walnut Valley Festival. Many of my readers will recognize these names of past performers: Alison Krause & Union Station, Mark O'Conner, Cherish the Ladies, Peter Ostroushko, Doc Watson, Robin & Linda Williams, New Grass Revival, and The Dixie Chicks. More recently, festivals which Nancy and I have attended have included noted artists (not present this year) such as The Greencards, David Munnelly Band, Misty River, Mountain Heart, Mountain Smoke, Sons of the San Juaquin, The Infamous Stringdusters, and Nickel Creek.

Nancy and I arrived at the barn (I'll explain that later) mid-afternoon on Thursday, left our luggage in the barnyard and headed for the fairgrounds. That's always a sentimental homecoming for me because my Grandfather Hackney brought me here a couple of times for the fair - and the horse races. We bought our admission tickets long ago, so we only need get our wristbands at check-in, and began our weekend with a casual stroll down the midway. It's a comfort to see that all of the vendors are in their customary spots, meaning we have our choice of funnel cakes, Indian tacos, bison burgers, turkey legs, fried pickles, fried catfish dinners, reubens, and on and on. New this year - hillbilly hash and fried peaches! That's two separate dishes, by the way.

As a rule, we listen to music all day and into the night. Not so this year. Partly due to the weather, and partly due to my back and neck soreness stemming from a minor auto collision in July, we just couldn't hang on as in previous years. Then, a wicked lightning storm forced event organizers to close down the outdoor stages on Friday evening (a prudent decision without question). We missed out on several performers that we were keen to hear. Hopefully next year. Following are some of the great musicians we did hear, and additional views from the festival.

Tommy Emmanuel on Stage 1

Aussie guitarist Tommy Emmanuel is a perennial crowd favorite, at Winfield and wherever he goes. His technical skills rival or surpass that of the world's elite classical guitarists, and he has creatively expanded the versatility of the instrument with percussive effects and feedback sounds that amaze listeners. Check out Tommy's web site (link below), or some of his YouTube videos.


Hot Club of Cowtown on Stage 1

It seems that every year there are a couple of performers or groups that really grab my attention - that ring my bell. One of those this go-round was Hot Club of Cowtown. Their energetic brand of western swing had me tapping my boots, and when they slowed it down with a ballad, Elana James displayed a terrific voice and a lot of style. Elana (formerly known as Elana Fremerman) is a KC-area native from Prairie Village. The ensemble is based in Austin, Texas.

It has been a tradition, at least in recent years, to include a Celtic ensemble in the festival line-up. After all, there is a direct link from Celtic music to American mountain music and other forms of folk music. This year we were very fortunate to hear Eileen Ivers and Immigrant Soul. Eileen was an original cast member of Riverdance, a founding member of Cherish the Ladies, has performed with numerous major symphony orchestras around the world, and somehow found the time to win nine (yes, 9) All-Ireland Fiddle Championships. She and Immigrant Soul all hail from a hotbed of Celtic music - New York City. Interesting sidelight: her Irish tenor singer was an original member of The Blues Brothers.


Tom Chapin and Michael Mark, Stage 2

Tom Chapin fans at Stage 2 (Hi, Jane!)

Many of us have never experienced Winfield without Tom Chapin and Friends. This was his 18th year at the event, and he has developed a large and loyal following which not only enjoys his original songs, many of which were written for children, but sings along and knows the motions. Nancy used his "A B C" song in the music classroom for years. Always a festival highlight for us!


Stephanie Bettman & Luke Halpin at Stage 3

We just got in on the last couple of songs of a set by Stephanie Bettman and Luke Halpin, performing "folk/Americana music with blues, jazz, and bluegrass influences." The first thing I noted was Stephanie's lovely, pure voice, which at times reminded of Joan Baez. We made mental notes to check out more by this engaging duo from Denver making their first appearance at Walnut Valley Festival. Didn't happen. The weather and my aching back conspired against that. Hope they are invited back so we can hear more!

Bill Barwick, guitar and vocals; Steve McCartney, standup bass and coyote sound effects

Bill Barwick is definitely no stranger to Winfield. His gravelly, basso profundo voice and his vast repertoire of cowboy/western songs and stories have graced these festival stages for 18 years. Always a treat to listen to Bill, whether he is performing his own set, or accompanying or sitting in with other performers.

Trevor Stewart and the Chapman Stick

Rare is the year when we don't hear or see something, in this case an instrument, that was completely unfamiliar to us. 2011 - Trevor Stewart performing on the Chapman Stick. As you can see in the photo, the instrument has a long fret board spanning the guitar and bass ranges. The strings are tapped, not plucked, using two hands. Electrical amplification is necessary.


The Wilders, 2009 Walnut Valley Festival

2011 - Some of the Wilders' "honky-tonk" fans

If you don't have body parts movin' while listening to The Wilders, you just might be dead. This Kansas City-based group can play numerous styles, but they are at their best when kickin' off a soulful Hank Williams country classic or rocking the joint with a hard-driving honky tonk fiddle tune.


Talented young singer, 2011

2007 - Rockin' Acoustic Circus, or something like that!

Acoustic Kids One of the important annual events is held on Friday and Saturday mornings - Acoustic Kids time on Stage 2. It is not a contest, but an opportunity for some deserving young talents to show off their chops in front of a large and appreciative audience. Some of those performers have returned to Winfield to compete in the contests and/or perform on the "big stage."

It would be impossible to present a balanced picture of the Winfield experience without talking about the campgrounds. Furthermore, it would not be possible to describe that camping experience in one paragraph, or a couple of photos. Many families or groups have been camping together at Winfield for decades. Many show up for land rush to reserve and set up their camping area and begin camping a week before the festival begins. Many of the camping areas a wildly and creatively decorated; some are set up by groups from certain states. Children are everywhere! It is a family experience.


2009 - Crab Camp

2011 - La La Land

The music doesn't stop when you leave the fairgrounds and enter the camping areas. If anything, there is more! Jam sessions are going 24/7 (so I am told), lending credence to those who say Winfield's motto is "Sleep when you're dead." There are a couple of stages in the campground area, of which the best known is Stage 5.

Stage 5

Prairie Acre at Stage 5

I want to give a "shout out" to The Prairie Acre, the Lawrence, Kansas, band which appears in these two pictures. They enjoy playing music and make music FUN. Their style? What is usually described as "old-time." It's pickin' and grinnin' with an emphasis on grinnin.' They also happen to be extremely talented. (You might note that this picture is blurred. Taking a picture of these guys while they are playing is like taking a photo of a hummingbird - you better have lots of light and a fast shutter speed.) I would hope this group gets an opportunity to perform on one of the main festival stages in the near future.

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Nancy and I are not Winfield old-timers, but we're not exactly Winfield Virgins either. 2011 was our seventh festival. We did miss the 2010 festival in order to spend five weeks in Italy. Campers? Not us - we spend our nights in The Barnyard Room in what was once the hayloft of a barn. But before you think we're roughing it, let me explain that the barn is now a bed and breakfast. The old barn was disassembled and moved, piece by piece to its present location, then cleverly converted to the Barns at Timber Creek B&B by Martin and Cheryl Rude, faculty members at nearby Southwestern College. We're what festival veterans refer to as flush and shower campers. (They could add heating and air-conditioning to that phrase, too, creature comforts which we have found to be very important on more than one occasion.)

For those who might wish to attend the festival and are not campers, I should note that rooms are booked well in advance at motels in the area, and that the Rudes have a long waiting list of folks wishing to stay at the Barns on festival weekend.

LINKS:

Walnut Valley Festival: www.wvfest.com/
Winfield Convention & Tourism: www.winfieldks.org
The Barns at Timber Creek B&B: http://timbercreekbarns.com/

LINKS TO PERFORMERS LISTED IN THIS ARTICLE:

Tommy Emmanuel: www.tommyemmanuel.com
Hot Club of Cowtown: http://hotclubofcowtown.com/
Eileen Ivers & Immigrant Soul: www.eileenivers.com/
Tom Chapin: www.tomchapin.com/
Stephanie Bettman & Luke Halpin: www.stephaniebettman.com/
Bill Barwick: www.billbarwick.com/
Trevor Stewart: www.trevorstewartmusic.com/
The Wilders: http://thewilders.us/
Prairie Acre: www.theprairieacre.com/

MORE LINKS - OTHER FESTIVAL PERFORMERS WE ENJOY - GREAT GROUPS OR SOLOISTS THAT WERE NOT MENTIONED IN THIS ARTICLE:

Still on the Hill: www.stillonthehill.com/

Dan Crary and Thunderation: www.thunderation.com/
Notorious: www.notoriousfolk.com/
Bluestem: www.sunflower.com/~bluestem/
Beppe Gambetta: www.beppegambetta.com/
Kenny & Amanda Smith Band: www.kenny-amandasmith.com/

The Border Queen

2011-05-17T11:28:00.001-05:00

Shotgun Quiz: There were six major cattle trailheads in early Kansas - each a rough and tumble place where trail hands could expect all kinds of excitement when the herd reached its destination and was sold. How many of the six can you name? Dodge City and Abilene come to most minds immediately, then Wichita. After a little thought, some will remember that Newton and Ellsworth had their days of "glory" as well. Hays? No, not Hays. I guess the image below has given it away by now. It's Caldwell - "The Border Queen." Never heard of it? Well belly up to the bar, cowhands, I'll tell you about that wicked "Border Queen," Caldwell, Kansas.

Located on the Chisholm Trail just north of the Kansas state line, and the first town outside of Indian Territory, Caldwell became an eagerly-awaited destination for dusty, bored cowboys ready to let off a little steam en route to the rail heads at Wichita and Abilene. When the Santa Fe Railway extended its line to Caldwell in 1879, the little town known as the Border Queen grew quickly, as did the numbers of saloons, gambling houses, and brothels. One Caldwell tour guide and historian has been quoted as telling visitors that his hometown once had more prostitutes per capita than any place in the world. [I guess we'll just have to take his word for that, because however would you, if you were so inclined, research that peculiar topic?]

1881 Opera House

Border Queen Museum Exhibits

Chisholm Trail Marker and mural

Kathy Weiser, in her article "Caldwell - The Wicked Border Queen," reports that "...between 1879 and 1885, Caldwell 'boasted' a higher murder rate, and loss of more law enforcement officers than other more famous cowtowns. During this period, violence claimed the lives of 18 city marshals, leading a Wichita editor to write, 'As we go to press hell is again in session in Caldwell.'"*

Visitors to Caldwell can see what is left of an authentic Boot Hill - no cartoonish grave markers or made-up names here to lure tourists. It is believed there were once approximately 60 graves in Boot Hill, but many of the markers have disappeared over the ages. How many bodies lie below the wheat fields surrounding the current cemetery? Who knows?

Located south of town on US Highway 81, on the route of the old Chisholm Trail, is an evocative reminder of those who rode the long, dusty trail - "The Ghost Riders Silhouettes." The monument was added to the Sumner County landscape in 1995 thanks to local labor and donations. How appropriate that at the precise moment I began to take photos standing next to one of the trail's successors (the highway), a train would be speeding along on another.

A word about Jesse Chisholm: I was surprised to learn that Jesse Chisholm never participated in any of the cattle drives along the Chisholm Trail, and had passed away by the time the larger numbers of cattle herds were being driven to Kansas. The son of a Scottish merchant and slave-trader father and a Cherokee mother, Jesse became a master of a number of Indian languages and dialects, a guide and interpreter, and the owner of trading posts in Indian Territory. It was these outposts that gave the Chisholm name to the trail.

Unlike some sister towns in Sumner County, Caldwell survives. Sumner City, which once had a population greater than any town in the county today, with a horse racing track visible from the air into the 1950s, has completely vanished**. The stories of early Caldwell are still around, as well as some remnants and relics of its exciting past.

Finally, Caldwell is also known as The Ornate Box Turtle Capital of Kansas Forgetting this during my visit, I failed to take a photo of the colorful box turtle mural on the side of one the town businesses.

*from a detailed account of Caldwell's early history at: www.legendsofamerica.com/ks-caldwell.html

** More on the disappearance of Sumner City and the alleged role of one of my Hackney ancestors in its demise will be explored someday in a posting of Memories from My Life's Journey

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Nearby:

Enroute to Caldwell, I sought out the site of the old mill at Drury, a few miles east of Caldwell on the Chikaskia (pronounced shuh-KASK-ee locally) River. My 94-year old mother still has memories of picnics and wading in the cool waters. I'm not certain, but think her papa might have taken grain there for milling, although the mill at Oxford would have been closer. The mill building itself burned to the ground in 1953 and only some of its foundation and the dam survive. There is a small park at the now, with picnic and restroom facilities.

Educator, naturalist, and photographer Larry Miller has reported that David Carradine and Hollywood film crews used the area as a movie location in 1973 and showed photos of it while being interviewed by Johnny Carson on the "Tonight Show." Carradine was involved in the "Kung Fu" television series at the time, but I have no knowledge if portions of that show were filmed at Drury or the Chikaskia River.

Other Links of Interest:

The "Official Sesquicentennial Cattle Drive" ~ 400 head of Texas Longhorns will be driven from Caldwell to Ellsworth. Labor Day weekend. http://www.kansascattledrive2011.com/

The Official Caldwell, Kansas Web Site: www.caldwellkansas.com/

The Red Hills

2011-05-06T15:50:00.012-05:00

The Red Hills of Barber and Comanche counties* fascinate me. The terrain is unlike much of Kansas, particularly the flat wheat belt where I was born and raised. It has long been my intention to return to that area to try my hand at photographing those landscapes. The first week of May of this year, I was able to accomplish that. I had hoped that the hills and grasslands would have greened up by this time and that the wildflowers might be in bloom. Apparently I was about a week to ten days to early for that, although some wildflowers were beginning to pop up.

The Red Hills get their color from the oxidation of the sedimentary iron deposits left during the Permian Period, 250 to 300 million years ago. The hills are also known as the Gypsum (or Gyp) Hills due to the large natural deposits of gypsum, which are mined in the vicinity.

US Highway 160 from Medicine Lodge to Coldwater (42 miles) cuts through the area and is known as the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway. There is another scenic drive on county roads which begins just west of Medicine Lodge. These scenic drives are collectively one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Geography Better views, however, are obtained by getting off the highway.

You must "dare to do dirt" to really see this country.

The Landscape

Branding Time at the Marsh Ranch

While driving along the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, I noticed a lot of activity going on at one of the corrals, and pulled off onto the right of way. I tried to take some long-distance photos with my long zoom lens without much to show for it. A distinguished-looking man in western working attire came over to me and introduced himself as Mr. Marsh, the owner of the Marsh Ranch headquartered in nearby Sun City, and asked me if I would like to come in for a closer look. Absolutely! He was preparing to leave and offered me the use of his mount, but as I have not been on horseback in a "few years," and have had several shoulder, knee, and other surgeries in the intervening period, I decided this would nor be a good time to make a fool of myself in front of these professional horsemen and women.

The cowboys and women were branding calves, attaching fly tags to the ears, and administering spring vaccinations, a process requiring skill, teamwork, and horsemanship. I had seen these and similar skills on display at the State Ranch Rodeo Championships at Medicine Lodge, but this was my first opportunity to watch it "up close and personal," and "for real." A big thanks to the Marshes and their crew for allowing me to photograph them at work.

Sun City
Population 53. That's down from 81 in 2000. What is Sun City known for? Perhaps the whiskey-fueled gunfight in 1880 that left one Mr. Adams mortally wounded as a result of a billiards wager. Maybe the 1883 cyclone that killed three townspeople. Folks in the know, however, would tell you unequivocally that Buster's Smokehouse Bar and Grill is what keeps Sun City on the map. Buster and his wife Alma have been dead quite some time now, but this iconic Sun City landmark just keeps going.

You can even find Buster's on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001319851865

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* Red Hills ~ Much of the area known as the Red Hills is located in Clark County as well, including the three highest points in the area: Mount Nebo, Mount Jesus, and Mount Lookout. I hope to visit Clark County on another photo journey.

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Some Links of Interest:

Medicine Lodge, Kansas - At the eastern end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway, a colorful and historic frontier town. Long-time camping ground for plains Indians, site of a landmark peace treaty between natives and the US government, and later home to that hatchet-yielding prohibitionist Carrie Nation. http://www.cyberlodg.com/mlcity/

Medicine Lodge Indian Peace Treaty Pageant - http://www.peacetreaty.org/ My first visit to Medicine Lodge and this pageant at age twelve made a huge impression on me. Not much was different when Nancy and I took in the festivities a couple of years ago. The event is held every three years, and this (2011) is the year. Parades, a large-scale pageant on a 40 acre "stage," a Plains Indians pow wow, and a rodeo are just part of what happens.

Coldwater, Kansas - At the western end of the Gyp Hills Scenic Byway. Served as my home base while exploring the area. http://www.coldwaterkansas.com/

Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway - http://www.ksbyways.org/Pages/Gypsum/gypsum1.html

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© text and photos Frank Thompson

8 Wonders of Kansas ~ The Guidebook, and an Exhibit

2011-04-28T15:15:00.003-05:00

Left: spiral ring, lay-flat edition; Right: limited edition hard bound

With the spiraling price of gasoline, this spring and summer will find more of us looking for places to go and see that are closer to home. That, plus the on-going Kansas Sesquicentennial celebration, made for perfect timing the recent release of the 8 wonders of Kansas! Guidebook.

I give this book two hearty thumbs up, and not only will use it

extensively in my future travels, but have picked it up

from time to time just to enjoy the photos and stories.

Over the last couple of years, thousands of Kansans and fans of the Sunflower State have participated in elections sponsored by the Kansas Sampler Foundation* to select first the Original 8 Wonders of Kansas, then the 8 Wonders of Kansas Architecture, Art, Commerce, Cuisine, Customs, Geography, History, and People. All finalists from each category are represented in the guidebook, with special emphasis on the winning entries.

The organization and layout of the 8 wonders of Kansas! Guidebook are first rate, resulting in a very readable, easy-to-use book. The text is written by "Kansas' Number One Cheerleader," Marci Penner, who has the gift of writing engaging, succinct commentary. And who better to provide the photo illustrations than Harland Schuster, a farmer/stockman from Morrill, Kansas, an accomplished photographer who knows Kansas? This book contains over 800 (yes, 800) photos of the 216 entries, many of which provide a unique perspective on the subject at hand.

8 wonders of Kansas! Guidebook is available online from the Kansas Sampler Foundation, and at a number of locally-owned Kansas book stores. My numerous KC metro area readers should be able to find it at Rainy Day Books within a few days of the posting of this blog. It's already available at the Raven Book Shop in Lawrence and several locations in Topeka.

* The Kansas Sampler Foundation is a non-profit organization whose mission is to preserve, sustain, and grow rural culture by educating Kansans about Kansas and by networking and supporting rural communities. It is not to be confused with the Kansas Sampler chain of t-shirt shops.

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If you are passing through Abilene this spring or summer, I encourage you to visit the Eisenhower Center, even if you have done so in the past. Between now and September 5, the Eisenhower Library is hosting an exhibit featuring the 8 Wonders of Kansas. I was surprised and impressed at the collection of Kansas artifacts made available to the Kansas Sampler Foundation and the library for this exhibit. The photos below give a brief introduction to the exhibit:

Helmet and shoes belonging to Amelia Earhart, photo of Carrie Nation behind bars

Artifacts from the Dragoons at Fort Scott

Exhibits honor famous black Kansans George Washington Carver (above) and Gordon Parks

Gemini space suit and helmet from The Cosmosphere, Hutchinson

Antique horse from C.W. Parker Carousel, Big Jay

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Nancy and I timed our exhibit visit to coincide with the kickoff ceremony for the 8 wonders of Kansas! Guidebook, as did quite a few other folks. Many were people associated with the sites featured in the book, some were book store owners eager to pick up their first stock orders, and there were ardent Kansas Explorers like us.

Harland and Marci happily signed numerous guidebooks.

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For lunch, we went to one of Abilene's signature eating establishments, the Kirby House. The Kirby House is an elegant, 1885 Victorian mansion built by one of the city's first bankers. Lunch and dinner are served daily in the eight main rooms of the house. Located downtown at 205 NE Third Street. (no web site)

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Mark your calendars, reserve the dates ~ The 2011 Kansas Sampler Festival is almost upon us. It takes place Saturday and Sunday, May 7 & 8, at Ray Miller Park, Leavenworth. The YouTube video above is from last year's event, also held in Leavenworth. My favorite part is the food concessions, but I'm certain most of my friends will be far more interested in learning about places to see and things to do in Kansas, and the educational stuff. Right. Leave a bieroch and a piece of pie for me, please. (Sour cream raisin, rhubarb or gooseberry preferred, definitely not coconut cream.)

If you live in northeast Kansas and think you will put it off until next year, you should know that the 2012 and 2013 festivals will be held in Liberal. I've made the drive many a time and can tell you it's a long ways from here.

All content except Kansas Sampler Festival's YouTube video

Favorite Sculptures and Statues

2011-02-10T21:58:00.014-06:00

PROLOGUE: I am dismayed by Governor Brownback's signing into oblivion the Kansas Arts Commission. This decision makes Kansas the first state to eliminate a state arts commission, and further enhances many an outsiders' mistaken notion that "those hicks out there" live in a cultural wasteland. As stated by many others in recent days, this move will deprive the state of millions of dollars in federal and regional arts grants. There are many who say this move will shut down concerts, art exhibitions, plays and more in rural communities. This goes beyond sad; it is a travesty. Imagine trying to sell your community to a potential new business if the quality of life is degraded by this cut. It is said that many will lose jobs at a time when the economy can't afford it. If those jobs are just bureaucrats at the KAC, I am only marginally concerned. There is a part of me that does not want government meddling in the arts, anyway - but if it somehow means working artists have to go elsewhere to practice their art, that is another matter - one that sucks away creative minds and vibrancy from our communities.

There is another, perhaps not-so-obvious, reason that I am steamed. It's the Guv's statement that the arts do not matter. That is not what he says with his mouth. It is what he says with one stroke of the pen. I think somebody should do a statue of Governor Brownback at some time in the future. If done according to my plan, it will be a pedestal of concrete - with NOTHING ON IT.

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With that said - I will tumble off of my wobbly soap box and, with a similar wobbliness, segue into this, my 38th Kansas Travels blog.

Big Surprise! - it involves the arts. In future months, I hope to intersperse journey reports with posts relating to the arts in Kansas. I am not an expert in most fields of the arts, but can write with authority on some (classical music, I humbly believe), or with some knowledge (painting), but totally clueless (poetry, for instance) on others. No doubt my personal tastes will be exposed, but after all, it is my list. Anybody is free to write their own blog, it is not as hard as one might think. Just remember, as I do, the words of Hubert Humphrey: "The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken seriously."

This series begins with a listing of my favorite sculptures in Kansas. A reminder - you may click on images to see larger sizes.

They Came to Stay: This work speaks to me like no other in the state. I find it to be powerfully evocative. Located on the grounds of the Sherman County Courthouse in Goodland, this mixed metal sculpture pays tribute to the grit and spirit of the hardy pioneer families that settled the high plains, enduring harsh conditions to work the land. Majestically executed by Goodland native Greg Todd, this work was dedicated in 1987. Get off of I-70 some time and check it out.

Phog: Remember - I said these would be MY favorites. I'm a Jayhawk - have been since 1952 when my family assembled around the massive Philco radio in the parlor of our Wellington home to listen to the Phog Allen-coached KU Jayhawks playing for the national championship. While in junior high I attended my first basketball game in Allen Fieldhouse to watch Wilt Chamberlain score 36 points and pull down 36 rebounds. Years later while a student at KU, I would play in the pep band watching a different group of Jayhawk stars - JoJo, Robo (Dave Robisch), etc. In regard to the statue itself, it is a fitting tribute to a man who learned basketball from the inventor of the game, became one of its first great coaches, and coached many players who would later become Hall of Fame coaches.

Ike: I Like Ike was a phrase we heard a lot in 1952. As the presidential election neared, we kids linked arms on the school ground and chanted that phrase, strange as that might seem to today's youngsters. But Dwight D. Eisenhower caught the attention and imagination of many a Kansan - young and old. Many of our fathers had fought under his command during World War II. He was a hero. Today, his proud and dignified likeness commands respect as it overlooks his hometown of Abilene. This eleven-foot bronze, sculpted by American artist, Robert Dean, was cast in Florence, Italy. The Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum were together voted as one of the original 8 Wonders of Kansas

John Brown: One man's terrorist is often another man's hero. So it was, and is, with John Brown. Near the entrance of the John Brown Park in Osawatomie is this statue of the militant abolitionist in a sober and intense pose, quite the opposite to his fiery and violent portrait in our state capitol building. This statue was cast by the Borbedine Foundry of Paris which also cast the Statue of Liberty. I might add there are a surprising number of historic sites of interest in Osawatomie, many related to those years of turmoil prior to the Civil War.

Children of the Trails: Sculpted by Chinese-American artist Kwan Wu, a Kansas City area resident, this poignant art work was "...created in loving memory of every child lost along the trails as families faced the unknown, blazing our nation's westward growth." (from the plaque accompanying sculpture). On the grounds of the Johnson County Courthouse, Olathe, Kansas.

Memorial to Volga German Settlers: Hardy people of faith and determination were needed to successfully settle the high plains of western Kansas, including the land around Victoria, Kansas. The people who filled those requirements were Germans immigrating from the Volga region of Russia. This memorial, across the street from the magnificent St. Fidelis Church ("The Cathedral of the Plains"), pays homage to those who endured harsh conditions to make a home for themselves on the Kansas frontier. This is another attraction just a few minutes away from I-70.

Summer at the Pond: Smaller in scale than the commemorative sculptures previously mentioned, this whimsical little jewel appeals to my sentimental side.Proof that bigger is not always better, it is my favorite of the numerous pieces of artwork in Overland Park's magnificent arboretum. Its tasteful placement within the Erickson Water Gardens adds to the charming effect. Summer at the Pond was created by Overland Park's own Robin Richerson who has a number of other works showing publicly in the area. Link to arboretum's website: www.opkansas.org/Things-to-See-And-Do/Overland-Park-Arboretum-And-Botanical-Gardens

Tall Oak Monument: Named for the tree from which it was hewn, this 27 foot Indian chief sculpture is quite striking in its location in front of the imposing Doniphan County Courthouse in Troy. Hungarian artist Peter Wolf Toth had a goal to sculpt an Indian monument in each US state. After meeting a resident of Troy at another site, he accepted the invitation to perform his craft in this small northeastern Kansas community. In this work, Toth did not depict a specific chief, nor a specific tribe. The feathers, neck broach, and head band are a composite rendering of those worn by the regional Kickapoo, Pottawatomie, Iowa, and Sac and Fox nations.

Octave Chanute Memorial: - previously seen in my Kansas Journeys (March 2010) - a mobile sculpture replicating the Wright brothers flying machine, commemorating the important relationship between the town's namesake and the birth of flight. French-born Octave Chanute was never a resident of this town, but the railroad he built here made the town possible. Chanute was also an early "expert" in aviation, and his book on glider design attracted the attention of the Wright brothers, and he became their mentor.

Bluegrass: Nancy and I have driven by this set of sculptures on numerous occasions, especially during our annual outings to Winfield's Walnut Valley Festival, held the third week of each September. I have not learned the title of the sculptures or the name of the creator, but that doesn't keep me from enjoying them. This set of four sculpted pylons pay homage to Winfield's long-time reputation as a great music city, and to the bluegrass and acoustic musicians who each year participate in the festival. Located in Island Park at the north end of Main Street.

Garden of Eden: Far more than a sculpture, perhaps more accurately labeled a sculptured environment, Samuel P Dinsmoor's concrete structures have been fascinating (or confounding) visitors to Lucas, Kansas, for almost 100 years. Dinsmoor, a retired teacher and farmer, a Civil War Veteran, Freemason, free-thinker, and Populist politician, began constructing his limestone "cabin" and these ideology-espousing concrete sculptures at the age of 64. One of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Art

M.T. Liggett's Metal Sculptures: If you have ever driven through little Mullinville (that's out in Kiowa County) on Highway 400, you've seen M.T.'s sculptures. They are impossible to miss. And if you've ever stopped to gaze at these "things," and M.T. came by to check you out, you will remember that event. He's impossible to forget. The whirligigs, gizmos, and miscellaneous insults lining the fence row give you a pretty good idea what Liggett is like. He's not interested in impressing the blue noses of the art world establishment and he could care less about political correctness. He is what he is, a fact that has often been documented in the media, including public television's Rare Visions and Roadside Revelations, magazine and newspaper stories, and on the web including one of my favorite sites: RoadsideAmerica.com .

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Some will question my choices, but as mentioned earlier, they are my favorites based on my tastes and my visits. Many would probably list Wichita's monumental Keeper of the Plains high on their list, but I simply haven't been there, as I rarely go to (but often through) Wichita. The Buffalo Bill Sculpture in Oakley? I've been there several times, and agree that it is beautifully executed, and yes, it certainly is huge. But I feel uncomfortable with the glorification of those so-called western heroes who systematically slaughtered the American Bison.

A prominent Kansas sculptor whose work is regretably not represented - Pete Felton of Hays. I have seen a couple of his works briefly, and have been impressed by photos of his work, but have never had the opportunity to photograph them myself. I hope to visit Hays (and perhaps his studio) sometime in the near future.

A few others I like and would not want to totally exclude: The Buffalo Soldier at Fort Leavenworth; The Pony Express Rider at Marysville; The Pioneer Woman statues at Council Grove and on the state house grounds at Topeka; Charles Goslin's statue of Chief Charles Bluejacket in Shawnee's Herman Laird Park; and Hubble's Rubble, a fanciful yard full of roadside art at Howard. And finally, how could I not mention Ernie Poe's American Bison made of wire (shown below) at the Fort Wallace Museum in Wallace? It's meeting great folks like Ernie, and even M.T. Liggett, that make my Kansas Journeys so enjoyable.

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Kansas 150 - The Kickoff!

2011-01-30T18:57:00.003-06:00

Friday Morning, January 28th ~

On the Steps of the Capitol Building

This celebration of Kansas statehood was far more subdued than that first one 150 years ago. Although times are difficult, life in Kansas is far easier than on that turbulent day in 1861 when James Buchanan scratched his name on a document making Kansas a state. A state free of slavery. The bloody battles previously limited to the border between Missouri and Kansas Territory would soon engulf the entire nation.

I imagine the first statehood celebration to have been a wild, raucous affair, - shouting in the streets, guns fired into the air, lusty singing, and perhaps a jug or two of whiskey - in stark contrast to this day. Kansas Day 2011 is a day for the politicians and dignitaries. A day for pomp and ceremony - marches by a military band, a 19-gun salute, and as one wag in period costume snorted, "much speechifyin'". The rest of the year is set aside for the grassroots celebrations, the peoples' parties. From here on out, it will be town bands in gazebos, fiddles and banjos in the park, and barbershop quartets in the civic auditoriums. I'm looking forward to this year's rodeos, parades, tractor pulls and watermelon feeds with gusto. Let the festivities commence!

Eugene Williams, general manager of KTWU, the public television station in Topeka, served as Master of Ceremonies.

The colors were posted by the Wa-Ta-Se American Legion Post of Mayetta, Kansas, located near the reservation of the Potawatomi Nation.

Governor Sam Brownback. He reminded those present of the difficult times of the past 150 years, how the struggles of our ancestral settlers were overcome by their strength, courage and steadfastness - traits we will need to show as we wrestle with our own difficult times.

Dr. Caryn Mirriam-Goldberg, Poet Laureate of Kansas, read Celebrate This Kansas depicting what it means to “live where the earth and stars converge.” Read the poem in its entirety at: http://arts.ks.gov/kansas150poem.shtml

The highlight? Easy. Rep. Barbara Ballard led those assembled in a singing of our state song, Home on the Range, accompanied by the 35th Infantry Division Band, followed by Ruffles and Flourishes* and the firing of a 19-gun salute. I believe the Ruffles and (two) Flourishes was played because there was a two-star general in attendance, but why 19 guns? If any of my readers know the answer to that question, I'd like to hear from them. My understanding is that 19 is usually reserved for vice-presidents, five star generals, cabinet members, and the like.

A video of the singing:

Governor Brownback spoke at some length with a number of the seventh grade students from a Topeka middle school who were in attendance. He appeared to be genuinely enjoying himself.

Friday Afternoon ~

At the Kansas Museum of History

Kansas 150 - the sesquicentennial - promises to be a busy year for the state's history museum. A special exhibit, 150 Things I Love About Kansas, is on display through the end of the year. I went to the museum to view the exhibit, but seeing the numbers of school children visiting that day, and the activities planned for them, decided it might be more fun to watch that, as I could came back another day for the "150 Things" showing.

Dorothy and her friends from that wonderful world over the rainbow were there, and the youngsters loved it!

This witch doesn't look so wicked to me, and these little cuties are anything but frightened.

From the 150 Things I Love exhibit, a display dedicated to - wheat of course!

Movie posters from an earlier time - advertising the horse operas of my childhood and before.

These children are learning about quilt making. I wondered how many of them had even seen a sewing machine before.

Still lookin' for a brain, scarecrow?

A classy and handsome couple show off the finery of another era:

Saturday Morning ~

At the Shawnee Indian Mission, Fairway

It was January 29 - Kansas Day. There was a granddaughter's birthday party at noon and a KU-K-State basketball game to be viewed at six. But that still left time to visit this important state historical site in the morning.

Operated by the Methodist Episcopal Church, this mission gave manual training and schooling to Indian children, mostly Shawnees and Delawares, from 1839 to 1862. The building also served briefly as a state capitol, as claimed by one pro-slavery contingent intent on founding a state government.

A pro-slavery group known as the Bogus Legislature drafted a constitution** (The Bogus Constitution) here. The document was based on that of Missouri, the state from which most of them had immigrated. The room pictured below now houses historic artifacts, but was the site of the penning of the constitution.

Those of us assembled listened to the (controversial) Reverend Thomas Johnson, who served for many years as the leader of this mission, and for whom Johnson County is named, and his wife Sarah.

They spoke as if today were January 29, 1861, and they had just learned that President James Buchanan had signed the bill granting statehood to the Free State of Kansas. We heard Sarah talk of their years on the frontier, teaching life skills (white man's life skills, that is) to Indian youngsters, and of the difficulties of surviva in this unsettled land.

When the Reverend Johnson arrived, the talk became more political and more passionate, as we learned of his role in the Bogus Legislature, of his own pro-slavery leanings, that he himself owned slaves. [For many years I have wondered why the county in which I live is named for a member of the pro-slavery faction who seemed to hold Indians in low regard. I now know, but still find it regrettable that we honor this man in such a way.]

Skilled reenactors George and Diane Bernheimer portrayed the Johnsons. The previous day, I had seen them appearing at the statehouse ceremony in roles as Kansas first governor and wife, Charles and Sara Robinson.

Birthday celebrations call for birthday cake and punch. Anita Faddis, Site Administrator at the Shawnee Indian Mission, cut the cake.

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* Ruffles and flourishes: something I remembered from my four-plus years as a musician in the Air Force; a set of brief fanfares for people of rank. For instance, the President of the United States receives four ruffles and flourishes prior to the playing of Hail to the Chief.

** It is my understanding that four different factions set up provisional governments, complete with a constitution, prior to Kansas' entry into the Union. In addition to the Bogus Constitution mentioned here, those were at Lecompton (pro-slavery), Lawrence (abolitionist), and Wyandot (abolitionist). The Wyandot version became the state's official constitution.

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Helpful Related Links:

Sesquicentennial Events (an exhaustive listing): http://ks150.kansas.gov/Pages/Calendar.aspx

Kansas Museum of History: http://www.kshs.org/portal_museum

Shawnee Indian Mission: http://www.kshs.org/portal_shawnee_indian_mission

A Difficult January Journey

2011-01-14T13:11:00.005-06:00

A Little Family History,

Some Random Thoughts and

Observations While Traveling

Some Background: Nancy's parents have not always been Kansans. They hail from Beaver County in the Oklahoma panhandle - what was once known as "No Man's Land." The government had offered the unwanted territory to the Indians who likewise had no use for it. It was eventually settled by a few hardy risk-takers, including the Glidewell and Staker families. Fred and Edith, Nancy's parents, later moved to California where Fred was a highly-skilled welder in the ship yards. In the late 40s they returned to the family homestead in Beaver County, followed by a move to Seward County, Kansas, in the mid 50s, where Fred farmed near Kismet, and Edith taught elementary school. As an "almost senior" adult, she had earned her degree at Fort Hays State and was able to land a position at the little school in Kismet. They have lived in Kansas since that time.

Now well into their 90s, Fred 98 and Edith 93, they have been residing in a senior center in Sharon Springs. However, the time has come when they must be moved closer to the home of the their son in the Oklahoma City area, a move complicated by Fred's hospitalization and Edith's dementia. It is a trying trip for all of us assembled in Wallace County to make the arrangements for the move, to divide and dispose of belongings, and to say farewell to those in Sharon Springs who have treated them with such love and respect through the years.

Following is collection of observances and thoughts as we make this particular journey through Kansas.

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I had planned to do some reading as we drove across the state from one end to the other, but as usually happens, I became mesmerized by the passing countryside instead. How many times have we made this trip? How many times, and at how many places, have we promised ourselves to get off at "that particular exit" and visit "that particular site" without ever doing so? Like everybody else it seems, we are always, always rushing across I-70, in a hurry to reach our destination. Retired? No matter, we're still in a hurry.

Now it seems that these unvisited places - the Chrysler home at Ellis comes to mind - will be seen only by choice and planning, not on a whim.

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Walker: We have frequently left the interstate to view the "Cathedral of the Plains," more properly identified as St. Fidelis Church in Victoria. On this Sunday morning, we instead exited at Walker to check out the stately church we had seen from the highway. Services are not scheduled for Sunday morning, so we were not able to gain entrance, so walked around and took a couple of photos. St. Anne's, like the larger church in nearby Victoria, was built by the German - Russian immigrants who settled the area. The cornerstone was laid in 1904.

[One of my goals for the year is to return to the area in order to photograph and write about the beautiful churches of Ellis County and vicinity.]

There is little left of Walker, Kansas, but for several years during World War II it was a vibrant community, home to Walker Army Airfield where the Army's Second Air Force trained bomber crews.* After the war, the base with its three 8,800 feet runways was abandoned. It is reported that these runways, ramps, and streets are still intact, though crumbling, because the costs of digging up and disposing of those concrete structures would have been prohibitive.

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View from the Motel: We stayed in an inexpensive motel in spite of the available free lodging so I could have access to wi-fi. Below is a view of the surrounding countryside, taken from the east end of the motel while experimenting with the effects of different filters (neutral density and polarizing) on snow scenes. Viewing that snow-covered landscape the day before had inspired a reference to Siberia on my facebook page, a comment which did not sit well with my sister-in-law who has lived in and loved this community for many years. No question about it, this is a nice town with wonderful people. I was considering only the landscape and the harsh conditions at that moment. Here is that view. I rest my case.**

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The Diner: Totally bundled against the blast of Canadian air, I slogged crossed the highway to Stephens, one of the two local diners, for a late breakfast, supposing all the "usual suspects" would be in their usual booths, drinking coffee and giving the good-natured waitress a hard time. Not the case today. Apparently -7 degrees keeps even these hardy fellows at home. Those few who were there laughingly ribbed me about my parka, stocking cap, etc. "Whatsa matter, you cold?" Only good natured and friendly folk will jab a stranger like that, so I felt very much at home.

After downing (just barely) a short stack - two of the lightest, fluffiest pancakes imaginable, plus a side of sausage, I studied the cafe bulletin board. A death notice, an announcement of a baby shower to be held here at the diner, business cards for farriers, custom cutting crews, estate sales. Not one hint of yoga or nutrition classes, pyramidal schemes, rock concerts, or environmental rallies. I'm not in Johnson County.

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Monday afternoon, we drove Nancy's mother to Tribune to visit Fred at the hospital. It was touching to see them reunited after the days apart. Even though cruelly stricken with dementia, Edith recognizes her partner of 72 years... Back in the car, I spent my time reading, but looked up when Nancy commented on the birds flying across the highway. "They're pheasants, dear." I replied. ... No pheasant seen while headed back north, just a small herd of white-tailed deer.

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North of Tribune I again noticed a sign seen on previous trips along this lonely stretch of highway: "White Woman Creek." Curious about the naming of that dry creek bed, I researched the subject online and learned of two accounts, variations on the same theme. Each legend involves an Indian attack on a small traveling party. The version more often quoted tells of a white woman being kidnapped, then making an escape with a stolen rope. With that rope she hanged herself to avoid the anticipated torture. The second, more "romantic" version tells of the white woman escaping, then perishing on the wide open prairie where her spirit my still be seen wandering the creek valley at night.

If you wish to learn more about these legends, here is a good place to start: http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?guid=ee5083c3-84c4-47c0-af6b-958aaf54c265

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KansaPedia

This is not related to our just-finished road trip, but worthy of mention. The Kansas Historical Society has introduced, just in time for the state's sesquicentennial, a new webpage which is going to be a great resource as well as an interesting read. I'm loving the panel of rotating photos from the archives. Check it out at: http://www.kshs.org/kansapedia

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* In the early sixties, I spent some time in Russell, a few miles east of Walker. North of Russell, dug into a rugged bank of the Saline River, is a cave which was said to be dug by German spies during WWII. Walker AFB, though distant, could be seen from these caves. It was further told that local residents of German descent, many of whom were still speaking German in the 60s, provided food and other supplies for these spies. That's the story, anyway. According to an on-line article at http://genealogytrails.com/kan/russell/GermanCavesHistory.html, the cave had been dug long beforehand by a local electrician. Nowhere in the article, however, is a statement that the cave(s) were not used by German spies. I wonder. [cave photo from genealogytrails.com]

** To be fair, I think many of us may not have a totally accurate picture of Siberia in our minds, or of western Kansas. If you have viewed some of the amazing photos of Boyd Norton or recent videos on the National Geographic Channel, you might be surprised to learn there is far more to Siberia than our stereotyped view of a totally flat wasteland fit only for the condemned . Western Kansas - Ditto!

Looking Ahead to 2011...

2010-12-31T13:28:00.004-06:00

Best wishes to all my Kansas Journeys
readers for a happy, prosperous,

and most of all - a blessed 2011!

In case you've wondered, my recent sabbatical* from Kansas Journeys postings does not signal an end to my sunflower state wanderings or an end to my series of blogs. I will be back in 2011. Whether it's better than ever remains to be seen, but there will be a multitude of places and events to visit, and plenty of things to write about. I'm hoping that trusty old Isuzu Rodeo will continue to serve me well o'er many a back road, but I have my doubts.

My readers outside of the KC Metro are mostly aware that in the new year, Kansas will celebrate its sesquicentennial (150 years of statehood), but east of Topeka, Lecompton, and Lawrence, there has been no publicity that I have seen or heard. None. Nada. Zilch.** Of course most of the local media is Missouri-based, but even they know the importance of their Kansas constituents' buying power. I suspect they would give coverage if informed.

In my own grassroots efforts to spread the word, I've found that my acquaintances had been completely unaware of that fact, but each expressed interest and asked what kinds of celebrations are planned. I'm glad they asked. One of my major goals for this space in the new year will be to publicize some of the more interesting events and to report on those which I am able to participate.

Celebrations? The vast majority planned are of a local grassroots nature. Cities, counties, and organizations of all types will be staging events, some large, some small. There will be parades, rodeos, art exhibits, lectures, bean feeds, concerts, just about any kind of appropriate entertainment imaginable. The State of Kansas has made a decision, prudent to my way of thinking, to not sacrifice dwindling finances for a grand and glorious public celebration, but to devote what resources it has at its disposal to assist in the coordination and publicizing of local events.

Kansas Day is January 29. It's unfortunate Kansas was admitted to the Union in mid-winter rather than on a sunny day in June. However, surrounded by the turmoil and bloodshed leading up to the War of Rebellion (some call it the Civil War though it was quite uncivil), politicos of the day were not in a mood to consider how we might wish to celebrate our birthday and century and a half later. There will be a ceremony at the capitol building, and events at the State Museum of History. More on that in a later posting.

Don't hesitate to get in touch with me if you have any questions regarding Kansas travel, or if you have comments or suggestions regarding my Kansas Travel blog. My email address: kansasexplorer3128@gmail.com

I'm closing out the year by of showing the wonderful family with which I've been blessed

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*Sabbatical - Nancy and I spent five weeks exploring Italy in the fall, and since that time, I have been totally absorbed in editing the resulting four thousand photo images and compiling a photo memory book for publication. All the while we've been taking time out to play with our three beautiful granddaughters, two of whom were born this year.

** New Year's Day Update - This morning's KC Star ran a full-page feature of eleven things to look for to in '11. First is the opening of the Kauffman Performing Arts Center. Second is sesquicentennial year, Kansas' 150th anniversary and the same for the War of Rebellion (Civil War). Good - that is a start.

Link of Interest: http://ks150.kansas.gov

Scott State Park

2010-08-19T16:13:00.003-05:00

From the archives -

I am reaching into my photo archives to bring you this Kansas Journey report. The recent heat and humidity stifled any desires I might have had to load up the Rodeo and hit the road. (And there is an upcoming "trip of a lifetime" to save money for, but that is another story, as they say.)

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Nancy and I traveled to Scott State Park in October, 2007, long before I began doing a Kansas Journeys blog. Although I have made only the one visit, Scott is still a favorite place, one I like to tell people about.

Scott State Park was a major surprise to me - one of the most pleasant surprises in my Kansas travels. Certainly I have been to places equally scenic, and to other beautiful places with rugged landscapes that unknowing masses would not associate with a state that is "flat as a pancake." But none of those have exceeded my expectations as did Scott State Park.

Oasis is a word commonly used to describe the setting of this state park, one that is quite fitting in my opinion. Located on the short grass prairies of western Kansas, its 100-acre springfed lake, wooded canyons and craggy bluffs provide a stark contrast to the surrounding landscape. Wildlife is found in abundance at this oasis: deer (whitetails and mule-deer), bobcats, wild turkey, foxes, and numerous types of reptiles.

The golden color of the cottonwood trees in these photos provides evidence that we were there in the autumn - October to be exact. It was lovely! The few campers and fishermen there at the time were enjoying the beautiful surroundings and the pleasant weather.

I think it would be interesting to view the lake and its shoreline by canoe, available at park, as are paddle boats, but wonder if I would dare take one of my high-end cameras in a canoe? Probably not.

This is a "full-service" park, with numerous camp sites (primitive or with facilities) and shower buildings, a playground and beach, nature trails for hikers or horseback riders, a horse camp, and a concession stand. The web site of the state parks (link below) indicates that Scott is one of the sites at which cabins are being built. [I certainly welcome the addition of cabins to our state parks, and hope to check out some of these cabins in the future.]

El Quartelejo (El Cuartelejo) Pueblo Ruins

Within the park grounds is one of Kansas' most significant archeological finds - the excavated foundations of an Indian pueblo dating to 1664, the northeasternmost such pueblo established. According to historians, Taos Indians fled Spanish rule and settled amongst the plains Indians at this site. Sometime prior to 1680, a Spanish military expedition returned the Taos to their original home, but in 1696 a band of Picuris pueblo Indians joined their plains Apache trading partners at El Quartelejo. Ten years later, the Picuris met the same fate as their Taos Indian predecessors. The Quartelejo Apaches abandoned the pueblo in the 1730s after a series of raids by Pawnee, Ute, and Comanche warriors.

The story of the ruins' discovery in 1888 is interesting in itself. Herbert L. Steele, one of Scott County's earliest settlers discovered and was re-using the irrigation ditches from the pueblo, then began finding artifacts from the earlier habitation. One newspaper account tells of him seeing ground squirrels carrying parched corn from holes in the ground. Steele notified the Kansas Historical Society of his findings. The first archeological dig began in 1897 under the guidance of two paleontology professors from the University of Kansas. El Quartelejo (or Cuartelejo) was added to the Register of National Historic places in 1965.

By necessity, I have kept my narrative regarding this Kansas historic treasure brief. There is a great deal more interesting reading at the two El Quartelejo links listed below, including some fascinating Indian legends related to the area.

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Visiting the area: With the thought in mind that a large percentage of my readers are located in the northeast corner of Kansas, a long drive from Scott County, I would like to offer some suggestions.

For those families who like to camp, fish, enjoy the water, this is an excellent destination unto itself. Note - small lake may not support boating other than those with trolling motors. Check it out.
Scott State Park is very close to one of the state's most striking geological formations, one of the 8 Original Wonders of Kansas - Monument Rocks and Castle Rock. Both are located in Gove County
There are a number of other sites in central and western Kansas that can be combined into a unique road trip. If you would like to plan such an outing and need help figuring out what there is to see and do, send me a note. I'll be glad to offer suggestions and/or help you find resources.
Those who make frequent trips to the mountains might find it worthwhile to spend a day at these and other Kansas sites of interest. Many are not far from I-70.

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Helpful Links:

Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks - Scott State Park Page: http://kdwp.state.ks.us/news/State-Parks/Locations/Scott

8 Wonders of Kansas - Scott State Park Page: www.kansassampler.org/8wonders/8wondersofkansas-view.php?id=32

Scott City (closest town for lodging and dining plus a Quartelejo museum): www.scottcitycofc.com/travel

History of El Quartelejo: www.keystonegallery.com/area/history/el_cuartelejo

El Cuartelejo, finalist for the 8 Wonders of Kansas History: www.kansassampler.org/8wonders/historyresults.php?id=297

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Barring unexpected developments, this will be my last Kansas Journeys blog posting until much later in the year. Nancy and I will be taking an extended trip to Italy this fall. I have set up a blogspot site in which I hope to keep our friends up-to-date on our whereabouts. It is our goal to post a photo or two, plus a very brief report daily, or as often as possible. Follow us at:

http://franknancyitaly.blogspot.com/

Kansas Museum of History

2010-08-02T15:26:00.005-05:00

Nancy and I recently paid a return visit to the Kansas Museum of History in Topeka. It was a trip long overdue, as I had not been there for several years and Nancy had not been there since our youngest child was in grade school. I had not intended to do a Kansas Journeys blog posting about our museum visit, but upon learning how few of our acquaintances knew anything about this outstanding attraction, and with Kansas' 150th anniversary of statehood coming up next year, I changed my mind.

~~Anybody~~, no, everybody who lives in the state of Kansas should visit the Kansas Museum of History. Why?

The lessons learned about our collective history are crucial to understanding our state and our people, why we are who we are in the 21st century;
The museum is not only educational and interesting, but entertaining. It is far from a mere collection of boring old artifacts. Even children as young as three and four will be fascinated with some of the displays, and that is before they enter the children's discovery area.
Whatever level of pride you might happen to have in your state, it will be elevated by viewing this museum.

For the remainder of this blog post, I'll minimize text, and include more photos than usual. I hope these pictures whet your appetite to visit the Kansas Museum of History.

This is a more familiar view of the museum - as seen from Interstate 70, but it is actually the rear of the building.

Adjacent to the main building is this Potawatomie Indian mission building, a Baptist manual labor training school in the 1850s, closed at present due to budgetary constraints.

Indians have lived, farmed and hunted on the Kansas prairies for thousands of years, This exhibit displays ancient pottery unearthed in the state.

This grass lodge typical of the Wichita tribe, as well as a Cheyenne tipi are among the types of Indian dwellings on display


Conestoga wagon used by settlers bound for the west.

Artifacts from years of bloody turmoil - Bleeding Kansas


No state had a higher per capita number of its men fighting in the Civil War than Kansas. This historic battle flag accompanied the 1st Colored Regiment, and lists the battles in which it fought.

Uniform of Kansas officer, Civil War

"On the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe," Locomotive #132 began riding the rails in 1880


Stan Herd's mural depicts the building of the railroad.

Public entertainment - town bands, Chautauquas, parades, etc.

The state's first of many aeroplanes, designed and built in Kansas 1914.

The Valentine company manufactured a kind of pre-fab roadside diner.

Later version of roadside "diner"

"Where's the Beef?"

Pop culture - 1960s & 70s

Guitar playing cowgirl in children's play area


Nancy and friend entertain me at the puppet theatre

Another section of the museum not pictured here is a gallery for temporary exhibits. Currently showing: Cars, the Need for Speed dealing with Kansas' long fascination with the auto culture.

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Links of Interest:
Kansas Museum of History: www.kshs.org/places/museum.
8 Wonders of Kansas History - Kansas Museum of History: www.kansassampler.org/8wonders/historyresults.php?id=278